WWS at La Quercia: A Taste-filled 10 Year Retrospective
In the restaurant business, anniversary events are a dime a dozen. It seems everyone can’t wait to celebrate their first, third, half or whatever-year mini-milestone. There’s no question that true longevity (take Vancouver icon Hy’s, for example) is indeed worth celebrating. But short-term hurrahs? Well, they often amount to little more than yet one more excuse to forage for publicity.
However, when Vancouver wine importer World Wine Synergy (now known simply as WWS) invited me to their ten-year anniversary luncheon I decided to pay attention. After all, the restaurant industry in these parts can be tricky even at the best of times. But being in the wine biz is also not for the faint of heart. And a successful decade under the belt is well worth a nod—especially when it’s been undertaken in a manner somewhat different from the norm.
Plus there was the lure of lunch at La Quercia, one of the city’s most highly regarded kitchens. Not to mention the remote chance of some decent wines being poured. ;-)
Why and how does it get here?
Most people who buy wine probably don’t really give much thought as to how that bottle actually comes to be on the shelf, especially when it’s imported (as opposed from BC.). After all, why should they? Well, at some point, somebody had to find the wine, decide to take the commercial risk, get it here, warehouse it and convince the retailer (or restaurant) that this particular juice is worth stocking—for a reason. And in some cases jump through proverbial bureaucratic hoops to do so.
Large agencies can rely on volume from big-budget brand names to support the core of their business. Yet most smaller players don’t get to enjoy that luxury. In short, they’re generally in it for the passion—in this instance a passion born of a true love of wine.
WWS partners Grace Li and Richard Loo, photo: Eric Wong
WWS: a focus on quality and origin
In fact, says WWS co-owner Richard Loo, it all adds up to a lot of “really hard work” that’s “not wildly profitable.” No doubt a mild understatement. That said, in the decade since dipping its toe in the often turbulent waters of the west coast wine market, WWS has grown its portfolio from just two wines to an offering of some 300. And while not all are necessarily that unique, most are very much driven by quality and origin. And several are lesser known varieties that have now gained at least a foothold.
That was the general idea, says WWS president Grace Li.
“We were very motivated to bring something different to the market, from indigenous grapes to winemakers with a different approach… something unique.”
A ‘eureka’ moment
From the very outset, Li went looking for ‘boutique’ wineries. Not in the ephemeral, trendy, fashionable sense but for producers with a discernible point of difference. Often their winemakers followed a less predictable path—as at Casale del Giglio, which has applied itself to re-establishing (in some cases) almost vanished, indigenous varieties.
The winery is situated in Lazio, until recently an all but overlooked region just to the south east of Rome. Two thousand years ago, they were making wine in Lazio when Big Julie (“I told him, ‘Julie, don’t go!’) was actually happening 😀—and likely even a few centuries prior.
It was while tasting the Cesanese at Casale del Giglio that Li experienced her ‘eureka’ moment, which came to define the WWS portfolio. Regarded as a true indigenous variety, late-ripening Cesanese can be traced back to vines grown in the rugged Appenine foothills. In time it became a staple on Roman tables, but almost disappeared after the Middle Ages. In recent years the variety has bounced back, especially the smaller berried, more intense Cesanese d’Affile, used in DOC wines.
Stinging Nettle Rotolo, Brown Butter
Fruit-driven, juicy and gently mineral driven, it often pairs nicely (no surprise) with the rustic flavours of classical Roman fare. The 2023 worked surprisingly well with La Quercia chef Adam Pegg’s extraordinary stinging nettle Rotolo with brown butter.
A plethora of palate pleasers
There was more, of course. It all kicked off with the appealingly dry Sorelle Bronco Rive di Farro Extra Brut, a cut above DOCG Prosecco Superiore, matched with Asolana (stuffed) olives.
To begin, a perfectly seared scallop beside a charcuterie plate were paired with a ‘make your own match’ trio of Kessler 2018 Alsace Grand Cru Riesling, Los Bermejos Canary Islands 2023 Malvasia Volcanico Seco, and Tiberio 2019 Fonte Canale Trebbiano d’Abruzzo.
Seared Scallop, Lardo, Cauliflower
Riesling Lanzarote Trebbiano
All yielded smart pairings for various elements; the acidity and creaminess of the Trebbiano with the scallop; also the citrus and minerality of Malvasia with the seafood; and the Riesling for its ability to span elements of both the shellfish and charcuterie.
Sausage Stuffed Morels, Polenta ~ ~ Porcini Mushroom Strudel, Parmigiano Fonduta
That theme continued throughout the lunch, which yielded several highlights and showcased the diversity of the WWS portfolio. So many good food matches were poured it was challenging to pick favourites. Although, there were some standouts. For me they included the Domaine de Barron Côte de Brouilly ‘Les Garances’ Beaujolais 2022, with sausage-stuffed Morel and Porcini strudel (above); and the superbly supple and berried Baricci Brunello di Montalcino 2018 (1.5L magnun) with Elk Sirloin and currant sago (below).
Elk Sirloin, Currant Sugo
However, I also really enjoyed how the ‘outliers’ showed, including the Kir-Yianni ‘Kali Riza’ 2021 Xinomavro (with the Morel dish), and the truly unique, solera made (’17-’18-’19) Eugenio Rosi Cabernet Franc (Trentino-Alto Adige) with the elk.
Much more to come
Reflecting on the first decade, Li says that after visiting the wineries they become “almost like extended family.” She adds that it’s impossible to overstate the ability to understand a sense of place and the importance of making those connections.
Moreover, says Li, “We don’t sign with anyone unless we walk the soil.”
Going forward, she suggests “education will always be the focus,” as WWS “will maintain its founding principals.” In fact, the newly designed website is geared to accommodate much more discussion and feedback from the sommelier community and others.
“Visitors will discover a welcoming space for wine talks, educational features and interviews, as well as a fresh focus on wine and food pairings,” says Li.
“Everything aims to make the discovery of wine more accessible, interactive and, above all, enjoyable,” says Li. “We believe that, building around fun and unique events, we will forge an even more dynamic profile in BC’s blossoming wine and food scene—keeping education at the core while celebrating the social and cultural richness of wine.”
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What’s in store…
If you’re keen to check out these lesser-known varieties (you should be!) here’s a short list of what you can find (mostly) on BC Liquor store shelves, and also at some private stores. If they sound a bit ‘out of the box’ fear not! After all, shouldn’t wine always be about discovering new things and expanding our horizons?
Grace Li and WWS certainly think so.
Casale del Casale del Giglio Cesanese Lazio IGT 2023
Fruit driven but edgy, vibrant, forward red berries, intense juicy palate, mulberry, pepper spice and savoury plus well integrated tannins with a definite mineral streak. BCL Listed. $25.99 90 pts.
Bodega Los Bermejos Malvasia Seco Lanzarote Canary Islands DO 2023
Up front floral, citrus and mineral aromas, with stone fruit and subtle tropical notes. Underpinned by distinct minerality with a streak of acidity and a stony close. Think lighter seafoods and fresh oysters! BCLS specialty $35.99 91 pts.
Tiberio Fonte Canale Trebbiano d’Abruzzo 2019
A real treat, made from 96 year old vines… Tropical and stone fruits on the nose with stony hints before a complex palate of vibrant orchard fruits and lovely citrus notes. Underpinned by mineral and gently saline hints through a zesty end. $98.99 93 pts.
Kir-Yianni Kali Riza Vieilles Vignes Amyndeon PDO 2021
A Greek flagship, made from 100 percent Xinomavro (pronounced ‘see-no-ma-bro’). Forward red berries and herb notes followed by a plush, dark cherry and strawberry toned palate through a lengthy end. BCLS $33.99 91 pts.
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