Hy’s Vancouver is celebrating its 60th anniversary. That’s no small achievement in a place like Vancouver, which surely has one of the most fickle dining scenes anywhere. Even though I haven’t lived here for all of those six decades, I have experienced the best part of five, and most have a Hy’s story of some kind worth telling.
They threw a good party this week to celebrate, with an endless parade of excellent canapés including piping hot morsels of legendary cheese bread. More to the point, the city’s restaurant royalty turned out in force to show their support – testament to the fact, no question, that Hy’s is a ‘legacy’ restaurant, one of the country’s truly iconic dining names.
A Shift at the Sands
The Hornby Street room was originally named Hy’s Encore, as it was the second location in town. The first was Hy’s at the Sands—now the Sands Best Western Plus Hotel—at English Bay. I never actually dined in that restaurant itself. But I did come close. My first ever visit to Vancouver was to attend my sister’s wedding. It was preceded by an epic stag party in a private dining room at the Sands—fuelled by cricket bags of wine! In those days it was still against the law to be seen drinking from the street, which meant that bars (for the most part) were without windows. Maybe it was just as well.
Hy’s at the sands closed, to be succeeded by nearby Hy’s at the Mansion, which opened in the early 1980s. It was housed in the stately home ‘Gabriola’, built by sugar magnate B.T. Rogers in 1901. For a decade it was the ‘go-to’ white linen dining destination.
Memories of Hy’s Mansion
‘Gabriola’ in its heyday, taken from Nicola St.
I have many fond memories of the Mansion because our group, Classic Carollers, used to sing there during the holidays. We felt that our Victorian era costumes would be the perfect match for the majestic interior. When I approached the restaurant they suggested we should ‘audition’.
We duly showed up, to be welcomed by Hy’s brother Bernie Aisenstat, who was seated behind a full set of drums in the Mansion’s lounge! Little did we know he was a professional drummer who had played with some big names, such as Duke Ellington, Count Basie and Oscar Peterson.
I guess we did sing for him but most of the time was spent chatting and joking around. In the end he said to come by the next night. It was the first of many over the years, when we would be sure to serenade almost every room in the gracious old building. It was a lot of fun, as we would walk in unannounced and just start singing. Bernie even made sure we appeared as a surprise for a family birthday party!
Always a chuckle
In those days the restaurant was managed by Doug Wagner, with whom we became friends. On arrival we’d always check in with him to see which rooms were ready for us. One very busy night we arrived and asked how things were going. Doug smiled wryly and burst into song: “Chef’s nuts roasting on an open fire…!”
Here’s a measure of just how far Hy’s would go for its customers. One ‘Christmas bride’ didn’t like red poinsettias. Prior to the wedding every one of likely a couple of hundred red plants were replaced with white ones. And then switched back to seasonal red plants afterwards.
Part of our payment in those days was in contra. Come January, Hy’s would host the four of us for dinner—and always treat us like royalty. There was something else, too. When you’re a live performer you’re very aware of noises that can distract your audience. Whenever we entered a room to sing, the staff suspended service, making sure we had their customers’ undivided attention. It’s a small point but it underscores very much what Hy’s is all about.
Trends and tradition
Hard to resist: Hy’s bar (courtesy Hy’s Canada)
Through it all, since 1962, the former Hy’s Encore—now Hy’s Steakhouse and Cocktail Bar—has thrived and survived. Every time I visit I marvel at the dexterity that blends trend with unswerving tradition. The downstairs room unapologetically harks back to another era, while upstairs contrasts with its modern-day decor and cocktail lounge. While upstairs is impressive, for me it’s always downstairs that lures. What I recently discovered is that all of the oil paintings that adorn there are originals. They were collected by Hy Aisenstat, who bought many at auction from Sotheby’s.
Hy’s President and CEO Neil Aisenstat reminded me that the original downstairs used to be larger, with doors leading off to private rooms on either side. Back in the wild and woolly days of the Vancouver Stock Exchange, this was the place where serious deals were done daily and high rollers had their own tables. And where double or triple martini lunches were the norm!
A worthy salute
Hy’s founder Hy Aisenstat
To that end, in celebration of their 60th, throughout October Hy’s Vancouver is offering a feature cocktail. “Larger Than Life” salutes founder Hy Aisenstat, whose personality indelibly shaped the character that still imbues today’s restaurants. All proceeds from cocktail sales will support the John Aisenstat Memorial Scholarship at VCC. The scholarship honours Neil’s brother John, who passed away in 2018. The VCC angle is extremely pertinent as many of today’s servers, managers and cooks gained their early experience at Hy’s.
Hy’s C.O.O. Megan Buckley and C.E.O. Neil Aisenstat
That unique brand of hospitality, says Neil Aisenstat, is “a testament to everyone who has worn a server’s jacket or worked on the line over the years. Their commitment to providing an unparalleled experience is one of the reasons why Hy’s has been a cornerstone of the Vancouver dining industry for six decades.”
As for the ability to embrace change while respecting tradition, Chief Operating Officer Megan Buckley says “While we always remain true to our heritage, it has been incredibly important for us to respond to evolving guest tastes.”
And that they have, in spades.
Leave A Comment