It’s a wrap! Sunday’s Vintners Brunch capped off in style another highly successful Vancouver International Wine Festival. Sponsored by the Vancouver Sun, Vintners Brunch is the week’s undisputed highlight for those lucky enough to attend. After all, it is one of the fastest selling events in the festival.
Vancouver Trade & Convention Centre ‘backstage’ view from near the judges’ room
The scenic room overlooks the harbour and North Shore Mountains. It complements perfectly the wealth of local talent that drives this event.
We take so much about the festival for granted. That includes the role played by legions of volunteers and the work that goes on behind the scenes. Imagine the overnight effort required to transform the International Festival Tasting into a brunch venue. With hundreds in attendance, plus 15 restaurants and 16 wineries, it’s no mean feat.
After 32 years Vintners Brunch remains the festival’s most popular event. How come? In great part it’s because the mood is so relaxed. And everyone is ready to dance by the time they’ve worked their way through 15 dishes.
From our perspective in the (windowless) judging room, every year the dishes and wine pairings just keep on getting better. In short, the competition—and the pace—is fast and furious.
It’s all about the match
That view deprived setting is actually pretty important, because it really is all about what’s on the plate‚ and in the glass. At the table with me this year were: writer, editor and Vancouver Sun contributor Joanne Sasvari, certified sommelier and festival Wine Logistics Coordinator Josh Clark, along with VIWF Executive Director Harry Hertscheg, sitting in for chef Julian Bond (who’s in stem cell therapy for Leukemia).
The first plate arrives at 11.30 AM. After that it’s a steady stream, as we receive a dish to judge about every eight minutes. Our volunteer crew are beyond awesome, as they serve and clear on cue. We see exactly the same dish being served to the guests out front, with the paired wine poured alongside. No ‘glamour’ plates on granite slabs are allowed, as used to happen in some competitions in the past.
We score each dish out of 50 points: 5 for creativity, 15 for taste, and 30 for the food and wine match. The latter weighting is critical. If the match doesn’t work, or if the dish doesn’t cause the wine to react, it’s unlikely the plate will rank. For the most part, though, the creations are successful. And we need the 15 minutes we allot ourselves for discussion at the end, after two hours of intense judging.
Congratulations to this year’s winners!
Vintners Brunch 2020 Notch8 winning dish
This year’s winner, from Notch8 Restaurant & Bar, was convincing on every level. Paired with Culmina Family Estate Unicus (Grüner Veltliner) 2018 ($17.59), Executive Chef Dennis Peckham’s entry was masterful.
Vintners Brunch 2020 winners (l-r) Bradley Bilick (Notch 8 GM), Sara Triggs (Culmina) and Notch8 executive chef Dennis Peckham
The combination of salmon pastrami with quail’s egg, on a miniature English muffin, with tiny lemon balm leaves was gently understated. It was a tasty morsel—with just the right combination and balance of ingredients to make the match work. The lemon balm picked up on the citrus in the wine—and a hint of spice brought out the Grüner’s peppery notes. This was a slam dunk that added up to a textbook pairing. It also may well have been the prettiest dish this year. And that’s not easy to do with this kind of volume.
Vintners Brunch 2020 judges’ second place dish—and People’s Choice— from Lot 185
Finishing in the judges’ second place was the home team’s Lot 185 Café & Wine Bar. Chef Anna Yeh’s sweet tomato jam bridged her lobster and onion quiche with more off dry Ste. Michelle Wine Estates Prayers of Saints Chardonnay 2018 ($16.49).
Vintners Brunch 2020 second place winners Chef Anna Yeh of Lot 185 with Chateau Ste. Michelle winemaker Leah Adint (r), photo: Christine McAvoy
The dish itself was delicious. And that touch of sweetness lifted this consumer friendly Chard to a more interesting level. This dish also proved a firm favourite with the guests, scooping People’s Choice. (Lot 185 is a great little all-day spot at the VTCC west entrance, btw.)
Vintners Brunch 2020 third place dish by Bauhaus
Last year’s winner, Bauhaus impressed again, albeit this time with a third place finish. Bauhaus Executive Chef Christian Kuehnel’s tender braised veal cheek nestled on potato mash and Soljanka, a classic German gently spicy-sour soup. It paired nicely with red berried Tommasi Family Estates Poggio al Tufo Rompicollo 2016 ($22.99).
Vintners Brunch judges: (l-r) Harry Hertscheg, Tim Pawsey, Joanne Sasvari and Josh Clark, with Vancouver Sun publisher Harold Munroe. Photo: Christine McAvoy
This is a fun event to judge. But it’s also hard work and a little more challenging every year—testament to the increasing sophistication of BC’s culinary scene.
Congratulations not only to the winners but to everyone who entered. And thanks also to the consulates and embassies of France, Chile, Italy, Portugal and the United States, who graciously co-host the festival.
Leave A Comment