Victoria Day … Growing up in the United Kingdom (are we still allowed to call it that?) I never really understood why ‘stat’ holidays were called ‘Bank’ holidays. Other than the banks (with their already ludicrous ‘bankers’ hours’) were closed all day. Not to say that Victoria Day makes any more sense than ‘the May bank holiday’. But it is—just a tad—more evocative.
More to the point is that the good queen, especially in earlier life, was not prudish as reputed. (Nor, it seems likely, did she actually say ‘We are not amused’ in any meaningful context).
Moreover, she was rumoured to have quite the appetite—both at the table and in the bedroom.
Neither was she averse to the odd ‘tipple’, including a curious blend of Whisky and Claret. Hmmm.
Of greater consequence, her beloved Prince Albert turned her on to Riesling. That in turn spawned generations of Riesling lovers. They helped drive sales of ‘Hock’ (named after Hochheim) heavenwards. Only later did her grandson, Kaiser Willhelm, screw things up—royally, you could say.
In 1854, the Queen and Prince Albert traveled through the Rheingau. A large, seven metre high monument at Hochheim marks the occasion. (Read more here.)
These recently tasted BC wines all scored royally. A fitting salute to the second longest reigning of British monarchs.
Sandhill Sovereign Opal 2019
6 Proper Drops to Amuse (Even) Queen Victoria
We’ll start with a suitably regal nod. Among the rarest of varieties, Sovereign Opal is a cross of Golden Muscat and Marechal Foch. It comes from the historic Casorso Family Vineyard in South Kelowna. The only known planting in Canada, some vines date from 1981. It’s consistently one of those ‘under the radar’ best wine values. Thankfully it’s back in the Sandhill fold. This follows a brief incarnation as rebranded Conviction The Industrialist.
Here’s a fun, summer wine. Aromas of orchard and stone fruits. A luscious palate of tropical hints, citrus and nectarine. Nicely balanced fruit and acidity. Pair it with gently spicy plates, Waldorf salad, or just happily sip. It’s a deal, even more so at the current LTO (Limited Time Offer) of BCLS $14.99. $2 off until June 5th. 91 pts,
Noble Ridge King’s Ransom Meritage 2017
Mainly Merlot (57%) with Cabernet Sauvignon (43%). This wine reflects a vintage with some of the hottest midsummer temperatures on record. The vines include some of the oldest Merlot and Cab Sauv plantings in the valley, from 1986. Bold aromas of intense red berries and tobacco. Followed by cassis, mulberry and cocoa on a plush palate, with mineral and savoury notes. $64.99 92 pts. Most certainly an imposing regal drop!
Not to be overlooked, the equally Noble ‘The One’ Sparkling traditional method 2016. Persistent, fine bubbles, appealing brioche notes, creamy and textured, orchard fruits with citrus and apple before a zesty end. A regal toast indeed. $39.99 93 pts.
Clos du Soleil Rosé 2020
Rosé sports an array of different personalities—which helps to fuel its apparently unstoppable popularity. Sometimes it can be challenging to know what you’re actually getting. Wines range from full-on fruity and blush to lighter, crisper, South of France styles. No surprise, more classically inclined Clos du Soleil is a quintessential nod to Provence. Made from 100% Malbec, purpose-grown on a south facing sun-drenched slope in Keremeos.
In the glass the wine is pale pink with floral and red fruit aromas that roam from rose petal to strawberry. The palate is fresh and lively, with cranberry, cherry and a touch of rhubarb with a touch of savoury. It’s all very appetite whetting! A lovely dance between subtlety and surprising intensity—infinitely more nuanced but still majestic! $22.90 92 pts.
Tightrope Pinot Gris 2020 SWGBC Certified
To be honest, I haven’t quite figured out the royal connection here. So …we’re walking the proverbial tightrope. ;-) However, this drop earns a spot as the first formally certified sustainable BC wine tasted since the program kicked in. But it’s also worthy as a ‘serious’ BC Pinot Gris, a relatively rarity these days in an ocean of Gris. A palate of grapefruit and lemon with distinct mineral undertones. Excellent balance of fruit and hallmark Okanagan acidity. Nicely textured with lingering sherbet hints nudged by an appealing, tangy edge. $22 92 pts.
Roche Chateau 2017
As noted, Queen Victoria did enjoy the odd glass of Claret. That is, at least, until her ‘friend’ John Brown swayed her towards Scotch. For centuries Claret had been the chosen tipple of the English aristocracy. Connections with Bordeaux dated back to the 12th century. The quality then would have been dubious. Even the quantity was diminished by a series of wars and tariffs against the French.
During Victoria’s early reign Port and Sherry enjoyed increasing popularity. However, Bordeaux rose again after 1860. That was when bottled wine finally became legal and tariffs dropped. Roche has strong roots to Bordeaux. Winemaker Penelope Roche hails from six generations of viticulture and winemaking. Her family owned Les Carmes Haut-Brion, an estate that actually dates from 1584.)
This year vignerons Penelope and Dylan Roche celebrate ten years in the Okanagan, where they settled after the chateau was sold. It wasn’t long before they were making their own ‘virtual’ Roche wines. They opened their Naramata Bench winery in 2017. Here they combine old world savoir-faire with sustainable practices and organically grown grapes.
I’m pretty certain HRH would have more than appreciated the 2017 Roche Chateau. A blend of 54% Cabernet Sauvignon, 36% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc. Forward notes of warm red and black berries, spice, leather and tobacco. Expressive cassis, damson and mulberry on the supple palate. Mineral undertones supported by firm but well-integrated tannins. Rewards even more after time in the glass. 93 pts. Also of note, Roche Pinot Noir 2019, 93 pts. Rosé 2020, 92 pts, and Pinot Gris 2020, 91 pts.
A true toast to Queen Victoria: Empress 1908 Gin
Well, this lineup wouldn’t be complete without mention of that favourite Windsor tipple, Gin. And nothing could be more regal—or suitably Victorian—than Empress 1908. This is a now very popular co-pro between Victoria’s hallowed Fairmont Empress Hotel and the clever folks at Victoria Spirits. I happened to taste it again last week—and was reminded of just how much fun, and tasty, it is.
The gin itself is indigo in the bottle, then turns more blue in the glass (with our ice). Then back to purple when you add citrus. (It reacts with Butterfly Pea Blossom.) And finally, it turns more to lavender with the tonic. Think new world adventure (they add black tea) meets old world style (as in London Dry) for a pretty delicious citrus and juniper, slightly earthy riff. Plus a light show. ;-)
Cheers to you, M’am.
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