Osteria Savio Volpe: One Smart Fox Indeed

Since I went to Osteria Savio Volpe I’ve had a tough time putting it out of my mind… Here, in no particular order, are a few thoughts on what sets this laid back Italian apart.

 

Savio what?

savio wolfWell, that’s the reaction I get from most people when I mention the name—which I happen to think is pretty clever. It means, literally, “The Tavern of the Clever Fox”. To be fair, for anyone who maybe doesn’t have an ear for Italian, it’s a tad challenging. Never mind. Once they’ve found it they won’t forget.

I like the idea of the tavern reference. It’s a nod to the old roadhouses that were common on the colony’s early wagon trails. And Kingsway was one of those. It started out as a little more than a muddy track. The route linked the capital of New Westminster (aka Royal City) to English Bay. Dotted around it were the sawmills that were precursors to Granville and Vancouver.

 

Savio where?

savio map

If you know Les Faux Bourgeois, it’s just down the street from there, a few doors west of Kingsway and Faser. In a way Osteria Savio Volpe lends a happy symbiosis to LFB, with similar feel and the same kind of passion behind the food. Not to take anything away from Les Faux, because it was the trailblazer, a few years back. I love the way that restaurants like these act as bellwethers to neighbourhoods in flux.

 

On the plate …

Any menu that leaves you wishing you could just order the whole thing is a sign that something good’s afoot. The first hint that Osteria Savio Volpe is noteworthy comes with an addictive black kale salad. It’s a simple, straightforward dish. Then again, it’s often just those kinds of plates that make a lasting impression. The key, says Savio chef Marc Perrier, is to find the right kind of (tender and fresh) kale. And not lose your fingertips on the mandolin.

Savio Volpe's black kale salad: it's a keeper

Savio Volpe’s black kale salad: it’s a keeper

The kale is diced and mixed with lemon pepper, olive oil and Pecorino cheese ($13). it’s a definite keeper that I’ve be trying to replicate—with fingers intact. (A good knife also works fine.) Then again, I could always just go back…

This beet and citrus salad tastes as good as it looks

This beet and citrus salad tastes as good as it looks

I was also wowed by the combination of the beet and citrus salad with almonds and Ricotta ($15). It rewards with an array of contrasting flavours and textures.

The evening’s  visual show stopper was the bagna cauda (top).  This simply conceived vegetable dip includes fingerling potatoes, celery, peppers and carrots, plus home baked bread. The “hot bath” is a delicious hot anchovy and garlic ‘fondue’ ($17). I’ll be back for these too.

 

Heritage pork chop with Roman sauce and smashed root vegetables

Heritage pork chop with Roman sauce and smashed root vegetables

Next up: a wood fired heritage pork chop. It comes tender and singed, served with irresistible seasonal ‘smashed’ root vegetables. The open grill sees lots of action.  Featured spit-roasted offering change by the day. And a wealth of other tastes to ponder roams from grilled squid to rabbit and more.

 

Grandfather’s Chocolate Tart, with olive oil, sea salt and pine-nuts

Grandfather’s Chocolate Tart

For dessert, all we needed was to share the sinfully rich and dense “Grandfather’s Chocolate Tart,” another superb array of contrasts, with extra virgin olive oil, sea salt and pine nuts.

 

In the glass

savio volpe wine listIf you wanted more evidence of depth, a glance at the wine list confirms it. Plus the staff know their pairings.   The all Italian list is well chosen and balanced with good local craft brews (Brassneck, Four Winds etc.) and smart cocktails.

Equally smart is the service. Not to mention the retro play list, which is one of the best I’ve heard, ever.

Wines by the glass run the gamut of the wine list, which allows for lots of flexibility. Planeta La Segreta Bianco 2014 (Sicily) had the citrus notes and the acidity for a slam dunk with the kale salad.  And for the pork chop, Del Barbaresco Nebbiolo (Langhe) ’13 was perfect.

 

A savio room

A warm and bustling interior

A well planned and bustling interior

The designers behind Savio Volpe have wrought a miracle. In a previous life, I knew this space as a longtime truck tire service garage and retread plant. But the building has great bones and they’ve made the most of them. The design is by Ste Marie, which is  responsible for a number of award-winning designs, from Homer Street Café, Ask for Luigi, Meat and Bread and Bao Bei. Its principal, Craig Stanghetta is co-owner with Paul Grunberg (also co-owner l’Abattoire, and former manager at several notables) and Mark Perrier (also an impressive resumé).

savio volpe interior above bar

Light, natural tones suit the relaxed mood well and the room revolves around two focal points. The bustling, central bar with casual seating anchors the centre. The equally busy open kitchen is in back. It’s surrounded by a showcase of Italian ingredients, house-made preserves and wines at the ready.

Above it all, that high ceiling just adds to the feeling of a destination room. At night, the expanse of glass in front is warm and inviting.

A welcoming sight

A welcoming sight

The western extremity of Kingsway is no longer the gritty stretch it once was. As more people move in its eateries reflect a more divers population. And, as densification takes hold, even the proliferation of pho shops is on the wane.

 

One more taste: wickedly good linguine carbonara

One more taste: wickedly good spaghetti carbonara

 

Details at saviovolpe.com

By | 2018-01-21T15:05:05+00:00 February 15th, 2016|Dining|0 Comments

About the Author:

Tim has been covering the food and wine revolution for about 20 kilos. Count 15 kg alone thanks to the blossoming cuisine and wine culture of British Columbia, Canada. Tim’s hallmark is seeking out and recommending value wines from BC and around the world that offer quality at every level. He also scopes out noteworthy restaurants that live up to their promises—and often over deliver. Readers depend on the Hired Belly for his “Belly’s Best” and “Belly’s Budget Best” picks to help them find the right wine for the occasion. He writes, tweets and shoots his own images for columns in the Vancouver Courier and North Shore News. He also contributes to WHERE Vancouver magazine, as well as to several other publications. They include Taste magazine, Tidings Magazine, and Montecristo. His columns are frequently picked up by major newspapers across Canada. Tim is a frequent judge for wine competitions, such as Vancouver Magazine International Wine Awards. He is a founding judge of The BC Lieutenant Governor’s Awards for Excellence in Wine. He is frequently invited to judge at The BC Wine Awards, and others. Tim has traveled to taste in many of the world’s leading wine regions, most recently in Burgundy, Argentina and Chile.

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