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Tio Pepe: a brand icon—one of the world's most successful (unveiled in 1849)—celebrated at Gonzalez Byass musem, Tim Pawsey photo
Coming right up (March 28-April 3): The Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival—edition number 32. Every year, it seems, tickets to the numerous trade and public special events—as well as to a wealth of winemaker’s dinners—sell out faster. And this year’s theme region of Spain is already proving to be a popular draw.
With just three weeks to go, during the run-up, we thought we’d touch on some tastings that (at least as writing) do still have a few spaces open.
A Whammy of Umami March 31, brings together two of the best in the food and wine biz in their respective fields.
Full credit for the off the wall title, we’re pretty sure, must go to Playhouse executive director Harry Hertscheg… In case you’re unfamiliar with the term ‘Umami,’ we can thank MW (and part time Toasted Heads rocker) Tim Hanni (a.k.a. the ‘Swami of Umami’) for bringing it into contemporary winespeak.
Cesar Saldaña, Tim Pawsey photo
Last time we caught up with Cesar Saldaña, Director General of the Regulating Council of Jerez, he delivered one of the best food and wine matching seminars we’ve ever attended, while local cheese maven Allison Spurrell (co-owner of Les Amis de Fromage) is also well known for her entertaining ‘Cheese 101’ evenings. Combine her culinary knowledge with Saldana’s Sherry expertise and this should be a fun way to learn about sherry (and Montilla), in all their remarkable versatility.
Wines to be poured include Amontillado and the almost spoonable Pedro Ximénez (just say ‘PX’, it’s way easier and way more cool) from top Montilla producer Alvear, as well as Nutty Solera Olorosa, Fino and Tio Pepe sherries, from flagship sherry maker Gonzalez Byass. As for the food matches, you’ll have to wait and see. But we can guarantee that in Allison’s hands they won’t disappoint.
The cellar at Gonzalez Byass where José Angel de la Pena created the Dry Fino that became Tio Pepe, Tim Pawsey
From Cava to a wealth of still wines well beyond much celebrated Rioja, Spain has one of the broadest range of styles of any wine producing country in the world (and, by the way, the largest area under vine). But sherry sales have fallen on hard times in recent years. That’s a pity as, in the right hands it can be truly transforming. (We’re doing our part to change that—so should you!)
If you want to read more about sherry, Cesar and his tastings, here’s a now ancient but still valid archived story.
Best book now, though, for the March 31 event.
While in Spain last year, our visit to Gonzalez Byass included an in depth exploration of all sherry styles, although we’d have to admit that (overall in Jerez) our rediscovery of Dry Fino’s extraordinary pairing flexibility was very gratifying. Tio Pepe’s history is intertwined with all the flair and avant garde design that personifies Spain. The bodega itself is remarkable, so we’ll leave you with this outside contrasting view to the Tio Pepe-Pallooza inside!
Gonzalez Byass' strikingly preserved main approach recalls 19th century Jerez, Tim Pawsey photo
Full disclosure: The Hired Belly serves on the VPIWF winery selection committee.
