Natural Wine Defined

What’s a natural wine, you might ask? It means the wine in your glass is in the purest possible form. It’s the closest it can be to the fruit that was in the vineyard, preferably organically or bio-dynamically farmed. Most likely it’s made with wild (not commercial) yeast, and with no sulphur added. Also, finished unfiltered and unfined—with minimal intervention. In the end, the goal is to achieve the purest expression of the site and variety.

Natural Wine on a roll

Haywire’s Christine Coletta is among a handful of BC winery owners  leading the charge for Natural Wines. The co-founder of Haywire / Okanagan Crush Pad has long been a big part of the changing face of BC winemaking. In the last few years, Coletta and chief winemaker Matt Dumayne have been upping their game even more. From the outset, Okanagan Crush Pad has followed a different path. It’s now the province’s largest user of concrete fermenters and, more recently, amphora vessels.

The winery is also among a small cadre of Canadians who attend RAW WINE, the UK’s rapidly growing Natural Wine fair. Offshoots are now also in New York, Berlin and, as of this year, Los Angeles.
RAW (as its website states) “celebrates wines with emotion. Wines that have a humanlike, or living, presence. They are also wines that are an authentic expression of a place. They are the polar opposite of industrialised, big-brand, manufactured, nothing-but-alcoholic-grape-juice wines, that use imagery and suggestion to sell a product.”

Embracing Amphora

I’m always impressed by Matt Dumayne’s wines when I taste at OCP. That was again the case last month, when several made my 90 point plus list. But what I wasn’t ready for was the first taste of 2016 Free Form Red, a 100 percent Pinot Noir made in amphora. A couple of things to note. This is the first Pinot to come from Haywire’s spectacular, Rabbitbrush ringed Garnet Valley property. It’s also one of the highest elevation vineyards in the Okanagan—and certified organic. The wine is from last year’s vintage and has never been in oak. That’s now the norm at Okanagan Crush Pad, which has only a smattering of barrels remaining, used only for its clients’ wines. They’ve also just installed a wall of concrete, square tanks, which will allow for increased production. Next year 8,000 out of 20,000 Haywire cases will be natural wine.

I was struck by the purity of fruit, both on the nose and palate, as well as the mouth filling structure. There’s also an elegance woven through with a beautiful savoury element.  A seamless expression of Pinot. 93 pts. $55. Look for it later this fall.

Perhaps not surprisingly, Okanagan Crush Pad has purchased several more amphorae.

An all natural showcase

An array of natural wines from across the Okanagan

A tasting before last month’s BCWI Colours fall tasting presented a few natural (and close to natural) wines. They were chosen and introduced by educator Michaela Morris. When it comes to natural wines, as they say, “your mileage may vary.” Or “beauty is in the eye of the beholder.” Not everyone is an immediate fan of what can be a highly esoteric and wide ranging style.

From this tasting and others, what was interesting for me is the performance of Syrah. It’s a varietal that seems to lend itself well to natural winemaking—and amphora in particular, and even concrete pipe.

Hard to find but worth tracking down, they include…

• Bella Wines Gamay Noir Ancestrale Sparkling 2016.

Pretty, medium salmon in the glass with wild berry notes on top. Yeasty and leesy notes on the palate and more berry notes evolving. 90 pts. c. $40

• Little Farm Pied de Cuvée Wild Ferment Riesling 2016.

Made with the purest form of natural yeast available. “We dump it (the grapes) in a bucket and leave it in the vineyard” (to ferment), says Rhys Pender. His partner Alishan Driediger is the winemaker. Definite Riesling varietal nose, with baked and apple skin notes, and a firm mineral undertone through the finish. 91 pts. $26

• Summerhill ‘Summerhill Vineyard’ Grüner Veltliner 2015 VQA.

Certified biodynamic, from the generally acclaimed pioneer of the BC organic movement, produced from a small parcel of GV planted on a whim. Precarious winemaking from partial stuck fermentation. Not as varietally apparent as some of the others. Some citrus and mineral notes with good fruit and acid balance. 89 pts.

• Sperling Vineyards Amber Pinot Gris 2016.

Quite opaque in the glass, with rusty towards caramel colour, tropical and stonefruit on the nose. A pleasing juiciness on the palate, a touch of acidity and a little heat in the finish. 90 pts. $90

• Tinhorn Creek Innovation Series Kerner Orange Wine 2016.

A good natural wine example, lifted stone fruit and citrus nose. Orange, apricot and peach palate, sporting a savoury edge and fresh acidity through the finish. 91 pts. Only at select restaurants. A hallmark wine for many reasons, not the least of which is that the vines have been pulled out. We’ll just have to wait to see if the Innovation Series continues under the new ownership of Andrew Peller. Hopefully it will.

• Cedar Creek Desert Ridge Meritage Amphora Project 2014.

Aromas of crushed red and dark berry fruits, layers of redcurrant and herbal hints with mineral notes and cedar, all unmasked by oak,  90 pts.

Tantalus Pinot Noir 2015

Wild fermented, unfiltered and unfined. Good varietal expression on the nose. Dark cherry and plum before a juicy, well balanced palate. Cherry and chocolate notes, approachable tannins and spice, lengthy end. Some sulphur used. 91 pts.

• Laughing Stock Amphorah Syrah 2016.

Intense purple, formidable blue fruit and cassis notes. Again, a pure fruit flavour that seems to the hallmark of amphora wines. Rounded and well integrated tannins, with spice and pepper plus more layers and complexity. 92 pts

• Clos de Soleil Estate Reserve Red 2013

Blend of cab Sauv, Merlot and Cab Franc, hand harvested and vinified separately. Expressive red and blue fruits on the nose. Juicy, layered raspberry and cassis, defined by a round, plush and plummy palate wrapped in approachable tannins through a lengthy end. Unfiltered and unfined. 90 pts.

Amphora at Chile’s de Martino winery, one of the first to revive their use

 

The post Natural Wines Blossom in Canada’s Okanagan appeared first on hiredBelly.com.

A handful of wineries has sprung up on BC’s Gulf Islands over the last few years. Yet, none have impressed as much as Sea Star Estate Farm & Vineyards. The picturesque winery is perched on a bluff on North Pender Island (between Vancouver and Victoria). Its vines seem to march right down to the ocean, with stunning views across to Saturna Island.

In a relatively short time, this small winery has won plenty of accolades for its consistently well made wines. How come? Essentially, it’s all about grape and place. From the outset, Sea Star has resolutely focused on varieties that make sense for the sometimes fickle climate.

To open a winery anywhere takes boundless courage, not a little cash and a healthy dollop of good luck. But to open a winery on a Gulf Island takes even more effort. Everything has to come in and go out by at least one ferry, and sometimes two. And finding reliable year round labour can also be challenging. Never mind. Sea Star has more than overcome all challenges.

Now comes news that the winery is under contract to buy 77 acre Saturna Island Family Estate Winery. With 44 acres under vine, this is indeed an exciting development. The neighbouring island is just a 10 minute boat ride away.

Saturna is a just short hop across the water from Sea Star (image courtesy of Colliers)

Saturna background

Saturna has an interesting Vancouver connection. The original vineyards were hand planted by the late Jean-Luc Bertrand, who opened Le Gavroche. He later co-owned ‘Le Gav’ for many years with Manuel Ferreira. (Manuel now co-owns and operates Miradoro at Tinhorn Creek).

Jean-Luc was looking for something to do beyond the restaurant business. Seeing the BC wine industry blossom, he encouraged lawyer Larry Page to buy the Saturna property. Jean-Luc took leave and headed off to wine school in Europe. When he returned he went to work planting Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

Despite much valiant effort, Saturna never really made it. The winery first went on the market in 2011 and finally closed in 2015.

Sea Star owner David Goudge is pretty excited about the purchase, which should be finaalised any day now.

One reason is that he’s thrilled to have access to more Pinot Noir. Plus, the fact that it’s from the Gulf Islands and just across  the channel, is even better.
“We can’t come close to what our market needs at the moment,” he says.

“There are two different lots. And even though they’ve had no love or attention for four years they’re in excellent shape,” he says.

He’s also happy to have more Pinot Gris, a small amount of Gewurztraminer, Pinot Meunier—and a whole lot of Chardonnay.

That Chardonnay offers a unique opportunity.

“People ask us all the time if we are going to make bubble,” he says.

Saturna made sparkling in the past. It would be only logical if this was part of the plan.

My guess is it will be.

Along with a handful of others in the region, Sea Star is a pace-setter. Their wines are a true indication of what can be achieved through good winemaking and fastidious sourcing of the right varieties. Almost all of their fruit comes from Pender Island—and soon from neighbouring Saturna.

Reviews

Here’s a run down on Sea Star’s current releases. Most are sold out at the winery. Track them down at better wine stores and restaurants.

Sea Star Pinot Gris 2016 (Vancouver Island). Lifted notes of green apple, pear and apple skin. A generous palate of stone fruit, citrus and tangerine, a luscious lingering, zesty finish. Whole cluster grapes from Cherry Point Vineyards. $22 92 pts.

Sea Star Stella Maris 2016 (Southern Gulf Islands). White flower, honey and slight rose petal top. A crisp palate of lychee and citrus with well balanced acidity. Juicy and luscious with a touch of minerality before a crisp dry finish. $24 91 pts.

Sea Star Ortega 2016 (Southern Gulf Islands). Ortega is—or should be—Vancouver Island’s secret weapon. The few who choose to make it do so well, including this producer. Aromas of citrus, nectarine, gooseberry and pink grapefruit. Well balanced fruit and acidity on a focused mid palate. Complex layers of spicy hints and lingering zesty notes. One of the best examples of what should be Vancouver Island’s flagship varietal. $20, 92 pts.

Sea Star Blanc de Noir 2016. (Made from Pender Island vinifera plus grapes from Beaumont Winery.) Pretty salmon colour in the glass. Up front red fruit and well defined varietal character, with strawberry, melon and cherry notes supported by balanced acidity. Crisp and clean with very good length. $24, 90 pts.

Sea Star Pinot Noir Reserve 2014 (Southern Gulf Islands). Here’s why Sea Star reckons it can use more Pinot. The Saturna purchase will make a big difference. Up front strawberry and cherry notes, supple and rounded on the palate. Measured French oak and well integrated, fine tannins through the soft but well structured and gently spicy close. Organically grown grapes from the Pender estate. $30, 91 pts.

Previous Sea Star reviews here

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The post Sea Star Spreads its Wings on Saturna appeared first on hiredBelly.com.

Argentina in the spotlight

Argentina is this month’s focus at BC Liquor Stores. Special deals and free tastings celebrate the South American producer through September 2nd.
It’s interesting how Argentina continues to broaden its appeal beyond Malbec—although, there’s no arguing with the success of the country’s favourite grape. Known for producing soft and supple reds, it continues to be a massive hit with consumers. High altitude plantings have also produced more complex wines. However, it’s important for the country to move forward and show its ability to produce other varieties equally well.

High altitude Malbec plantings in Cafayate, Salta, in northwest Argentina

In the ‘value-priced’ entry category, Malbec’s fruit-forward, approachable style often over delivers for the dollar. Malbec accounts for about a third of all red wine production, followed by Bonarda (about 23%). Rising stars Syrah / Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon account for about 14% and 12% respectively.

Dramatic landscapes are a hallmark of Catamarca, in Northern Argentina (supplied)

Barbecue buddies

Slowly but surely, those other grapes are also coming to the fore. Moreover, along with Malbec and Malbec Bordeaux blends, they make for ideal barbecue companions. That should come as no surprise.  Argentina’s classic cuisines are grounded in delicious meat dishes—and in traditional barbecue in particular.

Although beef is predominantly the staple, travel around Argentina and you’ll find plenty more. In the north, mountain hare comes roasted and served whole. While blood sausage (morcilla) and oven baked lamb empanadas are also firm favourites everywhere.

Nestled in the Andes foothills, Mendoza accounts for most of Argentina’s production (supplied)

Mendoza accounts for the vast majority of Argentina’s production (about 94%). Wines from Salta and the Calchaquí, in the northwest, are also coming to the fore. Yet, they represent only about three percent of the overall production. Never mind. The message is slowly getting out that there’s more to Argentina than Malbec.

 

5 Argentina red wine values…

Here’s a handful of good drops to help wrap up your summer in affordable style…

• Catena High Mountain Vines Malbec 2015 (Mendoza). From the pioneering producer who first put Malbec on the international map. This wine blends grapes from four vineyards ranging in elevation from 920 m. to 1,450 m) elevation, often rocky and alluvial soils. Well structured with integrated oak. Showing vanilla and cherry up front, followed by a supple, layered palate of cherry chocolate notes. Wrapped in good acidity and approachable tannins through a lingering finish. BCLS Argentina $22.49 (thru Sept 2), 91 pts.

• La Mascota Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 (Various, Mendoza). This winery is right beside the Mendoza River (at the foot of the Andes). A long established Cabernet producer, among other worthy varieties. Red and black fruits on the nose before a well-balanced palate of raspberry and cassis notes. A touch of mocha, juicy acidity and a lengthy finish. Excellent value, BCLS $16.99 90 pts.

• Domaine Bousquet Organic Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 (Mendoza). Red and black fruits, plus some clove and spice hints up front. A full bodied, richly textured palate with black cherry, cassis and peppery notes plus easy tannins through the end. Very good organic value, BCLS Argentina $15.99, 90 pts.

• Don David Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2015 (Calchaquí Valley, Salta). More excellent Cab value: up front black fruit and vanilla before a raspberry and black current. Good structure and length with some savoury and spice edges. BCLS Argentina $14.49, 89 pts.

• Finca Las Moras Tannat 2015 (Lujan de Cuyo). Tannat is usually used as a blending grape, to add body and colour. However, this single variety bottling has plenty to offer as a good barbecue wine. Uplifted notes of raspberry and blackberry. A plush mouthful of ripe black fruit with a touch of savoury and easy tannins. BCLS Argentina $13.99, 89 pts

And a not so under the radar white

• Cuma Organic Torrontes 2016 (Calchaquí Valley, Salta). One of the best value white wines on the market. This refreshing white is one more reason why Torrontes (almost unknown a few years ago) is now very much on the radar. Rose petal hints before luscious but fresh floral and tropical tones. A touch of peach and citrus before a clean finish. A perfect patio sipper but also a worthy food wine. BCLS, Argentina  $12.49, 89+ pts.

Taste some of these wines at Park Royal Signature BC Liquor Store, on Thursday, August 17th, between 2:30 – 6:30 PM.

 

This material also appears as in the Vancouver North Shore News

The post Argentina: Work Horse Wines Deliver Value appeared first on hiredBelly.com.

I’ve been following this new enterprise with interest.

I got to know Jessica Luongo during a visit to the Veneto, some 18 months ago. At the time I was impressed not only by her knowledge but also by the plans she was developing for their agency. Oh, and she’s lots of fun. As is Marisa.

But these two are serious about what they do.

What’s particularly interesting is how they’re building their portfolio. By concentrating on lesser known wines they’re already carving out a niche for themselves. The wineries they’ve chosen to represent are catching the attention of wine geeks. Read: savvy young sommeliers. Not to mention people who generally appreciate more esoteric tastes,

Amovino also has a knack with social media (they come by it naturally). That alone should serve as a lesson to some folks I can think of who still don’t take it seriously.

Inclined to ‘real’ wines

Amovino focuses a fair bit on natural wines, which are a hot topic these days. I asked them what they would say to people who haven’t yet tried natural wines. (They like to call them ‘real’ wines.)

“If people are concerned with where their food comes from, they need to understand what’s being put in their wine,” says Luongo. She says wine drinkers should have a good look at the brands they’re buying and what’s in their cellar..

“First and foremost, new labeling rules are going to open that up a lot. People are going to start wondering ‘where does this come from, how was it made, and how did it get here?'”

Varas says first time wine drinkers should judge a wine by its taste.

“It really should be more about if they like it. If they do, then explain how much that’s part of it.”

Amovino suggests the best thing is to ask questions and understand where the wine comes from.

I’ve had a couple of opportunities to taste through their growing portfolio. I appreciate what they’re doing to try to shape different tastes.

Here’s the News

Here’s the story from this weekend’s North Shore News …

Jessica Luongo is no stranger to wine. She used to work for her grandfather. Larry Luongo is a successful, longtime importer who’s a fixture on the Vancouver scene. That was until the granddaughter decided it was time to strike out on her own. And did so with her Nonno’s full blessing.

Luongo teamed up with business partner Marisa Varas to form their own agency. Amovino Distributors (a wickedly smart name) is already singing a very different tune. This youthful North Shore duo is promising to rewrite the book on “How to Run a Smart Wine Agency.” Amovino is all about introducing consumers to new tastes and ideas.

The secret of success lies in the specific wines you choose—and how you bring them to the market. While mainly working with imports, Amovino recently signed with Blue Grouse.

Amovino: changing tastes

Luongo and Varas are tapping into a shift by informed drinkers. They’re moving away from commercial styled or sweet tastes, opting for more nuanced wines. Much of the time they’re made with ‘minimal intervention’ or naturally.

Luongo says they like to use the term ‘Real Wine’ and all that entails. However, she insists: “We don’t want to be dogmatic or religious about natural wine and how to define it.”

“We try to work with small lot wineries, family producers—people who care about what they’re putting in their wines,” she says. She compares natural or ‘real’ wine to the Slow Food movement.

Amovino does focus on representing organic, biodynamic and natural producers—but not in every instance.

“As long as people are caring and their messages and ideals align with ours, that’s what counts.” “Plus ‘quality’ and ‘delicious,’ of course!”

Says Varas: “The fact that they’re organic and made with intention is just a side note.”

“We like to say: ‘the wines are great—and by the way, did you know they’re made organically?’”

As I nosed through this happily esoteric portfolio I found more than few good drops. These are wines that require you to think a little outside of the box but reward you for your curiosity. Here’s a fun foursome worth a look …

• SYN + ‘white dot’ Moschofilero Roditis 2015

Yes, this Greek wine is a bit of a mouthful in more ways than one. But Moschofilero (think ‘Moscow- fill-ero’) is fun to discover, especially this. Up front floral notes and wicked, bright acidity plus a streak of saline with zesty lemon peel in the end. With summer right around the corner, one sip  and maybe a little tzatziki and you’ll be dreaming of Santorini. (Screwcap) $21 – 90 pts. PWS

• Tinita Vinas de Verdejo 2015 (DO Rueda)

Some serious Verdejo to prime your summer tapas palate. Pretty gold in the glass and stone fruit on top. Limestone soils deliver wicked mineral intensity. A polished, complex, well textured middle of apple and citrus notes. Plus a lingering but clean end. Organic / biodynamic 91pts. $25. PWS

• SYN Mountain Fish Agiorgitiko 2014 (Nemea)

‘Agiorgitiko’ means ‘St. George’s grape’. Up front black fruit with refreshing, juicy acidity. Pleasing, mulberry and herbal notes with a touch of earthy spice and a lengthy finish. BCLS $18.99 – 90 pts.

• Cerejeiras Tinto 2015 (Lisbon DOP)

A good value, lip smacking Portuguese blend of mainly Castelao (60%) plus Aragonez and Touriga Nacional. Perfect to kick off barbecue season. Plush, rounded red fruit with a vibrant, red current and raspberry palate. Easy tannins and some spicy notes. All hand harvested and not a toothpick in sight. c. $15 –  91 pts. PWS. Also by the glass at Nightingale.

***

Other Amovino reviews to come.

The post Amovino: It’s How to Say ‘I Love Wine’ appeared first on hiredBelly.com.

Every wine region has its own, ‘signature’ wine or style, blend or variety. The Germans remain Riesling champions of the world. Italy’s Veneto lays claim to the uniqueness of apassimento and Amarone. The Chileans still care about Carmenere (though less so, perhaps, these days). And the French have a lock down on Champagne, no matter how many imitations pop up.

It’s hard to argue with Argentina’s unqualified success Malbec. The country has almost 40,000 hectares of the variety planted. About 86 percent is in Mendoza.

The variety offers everything people say they want in a red grape. Made well, it’s soft, supple, approachable, layered, quite complex and well reflects its terroir. In blends—in concert with others—it can shine.

Malbec World Day rolls around this year on April 17th. In anticipation I’ve spent the last few days exploring more Malbec than I taste in a year. One sure way to get a good snapshot of what’s out there.

In Malbec, Argentina truly does has something for everyone.

If you’re someone who shops on a budget you’ll know there are abundant choices and styles. Varying degrees of oak from subtle to sledgehammer—often well under the $20 sweet spot.

Yet, dig just a little deeper and you’ll be well rewarded.

Malbec evolves

Malbec is no longer the homogenous entity it once was. Argentina has been working hard on new plantings, especially at higher elevations. So much so that many producers now state on the label the height of the vineyards in metres. The impact of these higher plantings is significant. Higher elevations translate into bigger diurnals. The wider difference between warm days and cool nights translates into more acidity and structure.
These are my top scoring and best value wines of the week.

Bodega Argento Organic Malbec Reserva 2014

(Uco Valley, 1,090 m.) The purest expression of the variety, aromas of black and blue fruit. On the palate, cassis, blackberry, hints of spice, a little minerality. Seamless tannins and measured French oak through a lengthy end. 92 pts. Alberto Antonini consults. Why am I not surprised? $25-$27 at private wine stores, including Dollarton, The Gull and online from New District. The ‘Classic’ Argento Malbec ($17-$18) also offers excellent value, 89 pts).

Kaiken Malbec Reserva 2014

From a warmer site at 950 metres. Sustainably produced. Forward cherry and spice notes with a fruit driven palate of red and blue fruit. Good mouthfeel and approachable tannins. Excellent value. $15-$18 Private Stores

Zuccardi Q Malbec 2013 (Uco Valley)

From select old vine parcels. Made in a state of the art winery, built around scores of concrete eggs. Violets and black fruit up front. Blackberry and mulberry on a juicy, well balanced palate with firm tannins and a spicy close. 91 pts. $21.99 BCLS

Finca Decero Remelinos Single Vineyard Malbec 2014 (Mendoza)

Consistently one of the best Malbecs available in the local market, this wine comes from a stunning site at 1,050 m. in the Andean foothills. Luscious black fruit and violet, underpinned by juicy acidity with great length. Integrated tannins from well managed oak, through a plush, lingering finish. Everything Wine. 92 pts. $23.99

Pascual Toso Limited Edition Malbec 2014.

From a long established producer (since 1890) known for value wines. Blackberry and coconut on the nose from predominant American oak. A plush and plummy palate of black fruit and vanilla wrapped in approachable tannins. Good value…  91 pts. BCLS $17.99.

Cuma Organic Malbec 2016

The ‘deal’ of the flight, not complex but well made and certified organic. Lifted red fruit and plummy aromas followed by a fresh, red berry palate. Damson and vanilla, medium bodied with a hint of spice in the finish. Made by major producer Michel Torino. 89 pts. BCLS $12.49
Check with your local store for details of free tastings on Saturday, April 8th, 16th and at other times.

The post 6 Good Value Wines to Celebrate Malbec World Day appeared first on hiredBelly.com.

A few months ago I was sitting in a corner by the cozy fireplace at Vancouver’s Bacchus Lounge. I was there to meet Doug and Dawn Reimer. They were in town to preview their (inaugural) Mirabel Vineyards Pinot Noir 2015.

In many ways the couple epitomize the new wave of Okanagan wine growers. Dawn and Doug are well traveled and passionate about food and wine. Furthermore, they’re also well capitalized and extremely committed. The Reimer family hails from Winnipeg, where they founded the successful Reimer Trucking company.

The grapes for this release come from their Reimer Family Vineyards in Southeast Kelowna. Mirabel’s name reflects the wondrous setting and the spectacular view across the valley.

After careful study, in 2006 they planted the steep sloped, south and northwest facing vineyard to Pinot Noir. Since that time they have farmed the vineyard sustainably, with organic practices.  All hand harvested, the resulting low yields are 2.5 tons per acre.

Dawn and Doug Reimer and canine pals in their Mirabel Vineyard (supplied)

BC Pinot Noir lovers who recognise the Reimer name will know this vineyard.  In the past, the couple have supplied grapes to premium producers Foxtrot and Meyer.

Doug and Dawn first saw the farm status orchard property after a visit to the Okanagan in 2004. They fell in love with it and felt it would be the perfect place to pursue their dream of growing grapes.

Some of the former orchard remains, with apple and pear trees in a lower frost pocket. Doug says when it came to deciding which style of Pinot to make, between Old and New World, they wanted to be “in the middle but more inclined to Burgundy.”

The much traveled Matt Dumayne made the wine at Okanagan Crush Pad.

Here’s my review which appears in an upcoming edition of Quench magazine.

.

Mirabel Vineyards Pinot Noir 2015

Inaugural, premium release from the owners of East Kelowna’s Reimer Vineyard. (Formerly bottled as vineyard designate wines by Foxtrot and Meyer.) Farmed with organic practices. Lifted cherry and savoury hints on the nose followed by a delicately balanced palate. A definite nod to Burgundy that juxtaposes focused fruit with elegant structure. Strawberry notes with a hint of spice. A distinctive mineral streak and well managed new oak (11 1/2 months) as the wine evolves in the glass. $70 93 pts

Cost is $70 (750ml) and $160 (1500ml Magnum). Available either from www.mirabelvineyards.com or on line at New District

The post Mirabel Vineyards Debuts its Premium Pinot appeared first on hiredBelly.com.

That begs the question, is it really worth it?

It all depends on who you talk to. From the grower’s point of view, icewine requires an immense amount of resources. And even before they get to harvest it there’s a strong possibility that other enthusiasts, from bears to birds, will try to get their share.

All of which means that, by the time it gets to your local shelf, it doesn’t come cheap.

The consensus is that a great vintage (which 2014 promises to be) will likely yield a superb icewine—even more so, say some, because of the early freeze. Although, interestingly, there’s also a camp who suggests that multiple ‘mini-freezes (before the required sustained harvest temperature of -8C) can make for a more complex and interesting final result.

Summerhill CEO Ezra Cipes is pumped:

(From the BCWI release:)

“Icewine is something we can do better here in the Okanagan than anywhere else on earth.  To make outstanding icewine you need to start with outstanding grapes, and 2014 was one of the best Okanagan growing seasons ever. Now to have this cold snap so early in November, and harvest our icewine grapes before the birds get them is making us all smile and sing around the winery. This is a blessed vintage.”

Interestingly enough, one producer that won’t be making icewine—for the first time in 20 years—is Tinhorn Creek, which usually makes a (very good) Kerner icewine.

As luck would have it, this year their Kerner needed to be replanted.

“When we do that we try to figure if it’s time for a change.  If we did a lot more Icewine it would go to Asia,” says Tinhorn CEO Sandra Oldfield, who notes:

“Canadians don’t really drink it.”

So, how come?

Even a 375 ml. (half) bottle is too much for most people to consume at one sitting. My hunch is that the most successful wineries at selling wines to Canadians are those like Nk’Mip, Paradise Ranch and Tinhorn, who have traditionally bottled smaller, 200 ml. sizes.

Secondly, true to Canadian form, we really don’t make that much fuss about it. Icewine presents a wonderful opportunity for pastry chefs to play and show off their skills. But you’ll rarely see a suggested icewine pairing on a dessert menu—unless it’s a tourist driven resto.

My hunch is that the style and weight of many icewines is just too sweet for most people’s palates. No argument, it can be impressive to savour a wine with upwards of often 200 grams per litre of residual sugar. But your tastebuds can only take so much.

Never fear! Here’s Hired Belly’s failsafe dessert to guarantee you can enjoy at least some of that bottle of liquid gold you may have tucked away.

A perfect icewine dessert

(The main rule of pairing icewine is that the dessert should be lighter and less sweet tasting than the wine…)

• Blend three parts soft commercial goat cheese with two parts good quality French vanilla ice cream (such as from Whole Foods).

• When the creamy mix tastes just slightly more savoury than sweet, you’ve made the perfect match.
• Divide into portions and refreeze until a couple of hours before serving, then top with fruit slices such as apple, pear or kiwi.

You’ll be amazed how well it goes with icewine, Riesling in particular…

Don’t serve it too cold—an hour or two in the fridge (around 10 C.) should be fine. And pour a small taste into a regular white wine glass to best appreciate the aromas.

• Mission Hill Reserve Riesling Icewine 2013. A perennial winner: bright forward notes of citrus and floral notes, with marmalade hints on a viscous palate, balanced by a streak of acidity with a lingering citrus and honey finish. 92 pts. BCLS $59.99 (375 ml.)

This column ran in this weekend’s North Shore News

The post Icewine: Is it Worth it? appeared first on hiredBelly.com.

Casual tasting and wines by the glass at the market wine shop

Travel, they say, broadens the mind. It also sharpens your perspective at home.

A recent tasting in France found me thinking, once again, despite some progress, just how outdated BC’s liquor laws really still are, outdated—and ridiculous.

We were in the Victor Hugo Market, in central Toulouse, on a bustling Saturday morning. Surrounded by fresh produce at the wealth of butchers, cheese shops and fishmongers, and by the local citizenry going about their business, we were hosted by a wineshop for a casual tasting of wines from South West France.

With foie gras? A robust red, for a change

The setting was perfect, as we stood beside the counter, pairing a few wines with typical local fare, such as mineral and crisply citrus toned Ode d’Aydie 2011 with smoked trout which the wine merchant had caught and prepared himself (SAQ $18.95). Chateau d’Aydie Madiran l’Origine 2012—a bold, earthy blend of Tannat and Cabernet Franc—was a perfect foil to foie gras, SAQ $26.85.

Come to think of it, duck confit would also have been a good match,,,

Spicy toned, forest-floor edged Chateau Montus 2009 proved the ideal partner to a rich, duck sausage SAQ $30). As we were sipping and talking about the wines and their pairings, a couple of seven year olds casually helped themselves to our platter of foie gras : they knew a good thing when they saw it! Nobody blinked. And, no, they didn’t help themselves to a sip of Domaine St. Lannes Prelude d’Hiver, the perfect match.

Mmmm…Super fresh mackerel

More to the point, also as we stood there, the patrons were busy not only buying their wine but also enjoying wine samples and drinking wines by the glass, having finished their shopping in the market. It all seemed so perfectly normal and civilized. Indeed it was. And there’s no reason why we shouldn’t enjoy the same liberties here in B.C. However, even though we now have (grown in BC) wines at farmers markets, you can be pretty sure it’s a scene you won’t see any time soon at likes of Granville Island Public Market or Lonsdale Quay.

A good selection of south west wines …

We should be asking ourselves, “why not.” Instead, despite promises of sensible, liquor reforms that pair perfectly with our blossoming—no, make that “newly entrenched”—food and wine culture, we’re treated to an ongoing spectacle of back room deals that continue to favour a few well-placed and politically connected interests.

Sometimes I wonder if I’m just too cranky about this issue. But it seems to me that despite politicians’ professed good intentions, when it comes right down to it, we’re just treading water.

What do you think?

Comments below …

Toulouse market fishmonger counter

The post Casual Wine Tasting in a Toulouse Market appeared first on hiredBelly.com.

A spectacular vista of Rias Baixas Val do Salnés  coastline

Bodegas Vionta (Rias Baixas) sports an impressive view (above). You can see that most of the vineyards in Val do Salnés are quite small, in fact the average size for all of Rias Baixas is .59 ha. There are 4,759 growers in this sub region alone! Groupe Freixenet purchased the property in 2012. It includes a state of the art winery, impressively landscaped gardens and a beautifully appointed reception centre. (Vionta is the name of a protected island off the cape in the distance.)

During our visit we were shown a new “lifestyle” wine: “You & Me” 2013 is a 100 percent Albariño, that sports floral notes and bright tropical fruit flavours, with a light juicy stone fruit palate. It makes for a perfect sipper or a good partner to gently spiced plates. Coming to a wine shop near you, soonish. 89 pts.

But that wasn’t the point. It was really about the packaging. You & Me comes bottled with three different labels. We were asked which we thought would be most appropriate for our respective markets.

I thought it kind of a fun exercise to share, so here are the labels…

 

Feet label

I have to admit that I thought this concept is by now a little ‘tired’. After all, that whole feet up feet down thing goes back more than a few years. My guess is that this label would do well in private stores but I have a hunch that the government stores might have an issue with the label. Just a hunch, mind you. Though God knows why. (BTW that foot on the right isn’t really deformed. It’s just my photo…)

Bicycle label

This is kind of cute, although somebody joked that Canadian monopolies would have a real problem with it—because they’re (gasp!) not wearing helmets. I thought it was a bit telling because the guy is “driving” and might be more fun if the gal was—and he was carrying the picnic. Just a thought. Good for their target market, which is stay at home couples and friends. And maybe this label would be really good for bicycle savvy  Vancouver…

Cassette label

This is the most fun and edgiest of the options. I did have to give it a second glance to see what it was—not a bad thing. But I do think it appeals to the younger drinker more than the other two. Unlikely to get lost on the shelf, which the ‘bicycle’ label likely would. Not so sure about “The White Experience” on all of these. But that’s probably going to change, which is a good thing.

 

What do you think?

Please comment below!

 

 

 

The post Which Wine Label Would You Choose ? appeared first on hiredBelly.com.

(oops) – the name—and the label—says it all

(Updated, Oct 1, 2014)

Oops! Fun stuff: (oops) is what’s on the label; and the wine is worth a quick plug. But is this a classic case of a name just too clever for itself? A couple of weeks ago I picked (oops) –  a wallet friendly Chilean Carmenere – for my North Shore News Column. Only trouble is, by the time the column had progressed through editing to layout to the page, this cute moniker got lost in the shuffle. I won’t bore you with the details but obviously my editor figured that “(oops)” – yes, in brackets – was my own interjection—and surely wasn’t the name of a wine!

I could wax on (of course) about the (inherent) pitfalls surrounding (excessive) use of brackets, especially in the wrong context (such as around a proper name). And then there’s the (separate) issue of (misleading) lower case names. But I wouldn’t dare. (Much.)

Belly’s Budget Best

(oops) Carmenere-Merlot 2013

Carmenere with a splash of Merlot—just to mix it up a little…

Okay, I’ll admit it, I’m a sucker for clever packaging, as long as what’s inside measures up, and in this case it does. (oops) sports a clever (not so little) label that documents in detail the improbable but true story of how most of what used to pass for Merlot in Chile was actually Carmenère. (oops) indeed!

(oops) v. 2013 has a healthy dollop of Merlot (30 percent), which brings a more rounded, fuller mouthfeel, with black fruit, vanilla notes and good length. It all adds up to a decent, wallet friendly drop.   Good value at BCLS $14.99 89 pts. Think barbecued red meat or pasta with tomato based sauces.

(Oh, and if those brackets remind you of something, yes, there is a vague

[Yellow Tail] connection …)

 

 

The post (oops) wine – A Cautionary Tale of Typography appeared first on hiredBelly.com.