Emblematic bites: Raw clams and coriander & R&B East Side Bitter, Tim Pawsey photo
Early into our second
visit to Fat Dragon Bar-B-Q we had one of those ‘aha’ moments that helps define what we really enjoy about a restaurant. In this case it was the sheer simplicity and freshness of shucked raw Sawmill Bay clams, with chili sauce and coriander, that had just the right amount of spice to be interesting without masking the delicate saltiness of the clams—which were deliciously succulent.
We were hooked! And there wasn’t even any pig in this one!
(We also liked the fact the plate yielded six clams. Why don’t more restaurants serve ‘share plates‘ that are, indeed, easily and evenly shared?)
It’s really all about the (addictive) crispy pork belly …
While there’s no shortage of good tastes at Robert Belcham’s edgy new, porcine-inclined spot (which is a bit in no-man’s land, in Strathcona, east of Gastown and Chinatown) the clams proved to be an unexpected show-stopper. And even though it is really all about the pork, they’re also emblematic of the style going down here.
Plus the clean hop of R&B East Side Bitter (aside from being an essential part of the research) just seemed to play into both the plate and the neighborhood flavour. (You can be pretty sure it’s only a matter of time before R&B’s Dark Snout ‘bacon beer’ shows up here too…)
An intriguing, pink tunnel entrance …
The restaurant business is tough enough as it is. But I’m a huge fan of folks like Joe Chaput (Au Petit Chavignol), Tanis Ling (Bao Bei), Andrew Wong (Wild Rice, which just turned 11), Belcham and others, who bravely launch new ventures in relatively uncharted territory.
Often as not, these restaurants have proven to be the bell-weather of a neighbourhood’s changing fortunes.
Fat Dragon Bar-B-Q, 566 Powell St., 604-558-0880. (No 4 Bus). Open daily from 11: 30 a.m. No reservations, except for large groups.
Fat Dragon pigs out on Asian barbecue
Belcham’s latest delivers more than just porky delights
By Tim Pawsey, Vancouver Courier
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When it comes to raw bivalves, the Hired Belly is more of an oyster fan. But the prospect of freshly shucked, plump and juicy Sawmill clams-spiced with hot sauce and coriander and paired with a pint of R&B East Side Bitter- was too good to pass up.
It was also fitting as we pondered the menu at Fat Dragon Bar-B-Q-the latest from envelope-pusher Robert Belcham (Fuel, refuel, Campagnolo/Roma, etc.), who’s earned a reputation for setting foot in unusual, sometimes gritty, ‘hoods, with equally novel ideas.
Tucked away at Powell and Princess, on the edge of what used to be Japan Town, it’s a brave move to open in limbo-land like this. But Belcham has a knack for reading things right, and so far there’s no shortage of flavour hounds finding their way through the hot-pink, fabric tube that tunnels into this spacious, red-bricktrimmed haunt.
Belcham’s paen to all things porcine is quiet during the day but fills up quickly by mid-evening. The name, along with its leaping dragon sign outside is appropriate to the crossover, East-meets-South cuisine, underpinned by a healthy dose of barbecue. Read full review
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