Owners Scott and Stephanie Jaeger have announced plans to shutter their celebrated room, after 23 years, on August 15th. For sure, it’s been a challenging time surviving in spite of Covid-19. But their prime reason is: “due to irreconcilable lease negotiations.”

You and I know both know that’s usually polite speak for something far more unsavoury behind the scenes.

A forty percent rent increase

Here’s a few more details from the release.

“The decision by The PearTree owners, Scott and Stephanie Jaeger, did not come lightly and lease negotiations on their Burnaby Heights location had been ongoing well before the pandemic to find a workable agreement. Facing more than a forty percent rent increase, a landlord’s desire for a ‘demo clause’ in year one, along with a number of other unworkable clauses have left the reputable husband-wife hospitality team no choice but to close their restaurant as of August 15, 2020.”

The PearTree weathered the initial Covid storm. Jumping into take-out, they made all the adaptations needed to reopen, protect their staff and safely maintain standards and service. What’s even more impressive, this month, The Pear Tree managed to return to last year’s business levels.

“The last several months have been a challenge to say the least,” says Stephanie Jaeger. “The dedication and commitment from the staff have been unbelievable and with amazing customers and suppliers supporting take out and restricted dining, we brought July sales back to be on par with last year so to not be able to find a solution to the lease is very disappointing.”

No kidding! More polite speak.

I know this isn’t an isolated situation. Across Canada, many independent restaurateurs are today facing similar anguished decisions. And, to be fair, in a few cases, landlords are being realistic, pragmatic and accommodating. As Scott Jaeger says, “I’m the only restaurant I know who’s paying rent right now.”
I understand that property owners also ultimately have to answer to the bank. But to inflict these kinds of demands on a reputable and long-standing lessee—my guess is a perfect tenant—is at best myopic and, at worst, plain greedy. Not to mention ill-timed.

Moving on

No doubt the Jaegers will find another way to pursue their passion for excellence. In fact, plans are already in place to offer private in-home dining at a similarly elevated level.

Also not to be overlooked is the role that Scott and Stephanie Jaeger have played well beyond the primary operation of The PearTree. Both have mentored an extraordinary number of people who’ve gone on to their own successful careers.

One can hope only that Karma will ultimately get to play a role. But it won’t matter. In the meantime another stalwart and pioneer will be needlessly gone. And Burnaby Heights will be poorer for its loss.

Addendum:

A couple of people have suggested I’m being too hard on the landlord, pointing in particular to the ‘air tax’ that is based on a property’s development potential. In this case it’s six storeys. The current structure is two storeys. The Jaegers choose not to make the landlord’s name public. But they advise they have been trying very hard to work with them over the last while, since the building was sold (a few years ago) by the owners from whom they originally rented.

The point here is that these are extraordinary and very precarious times for everyone, but especially for anyone in the restaurant business. However, there are numerous instances of property owners / landlords being accommodating during Covid19 (see Bishop’s for example). But, from the information that Scott Jaeger, this owner (who purchased relatively recently) seemed very determined to get them out, Covid or no Covid, and had no interest in participating in CECRA (Canada Emergency Commercial Rent Assistance), for example.

It’s also apparent that perhaps because of all the attention on the residential housing market some of the parallel activities in commercial real estate have been all but ignored.

More to come…

(From the release)
The PearTree Restaurant has been continually recognized regionally and nationally as one of Canada’s leaders in the restaurant business. Stephanie and Scott Jaeger have sparked the careers of many hospitality professionals and mentored many at their restaurant, as well as in their community roles as active member and past president of Les Dames Escoffier BC Chapter (Stephanie) and active founding member and past president of Chefs’ Table Society of BC (Scott). Both Stephanie and Chef Scott have been individually inducted into the BCRFA restaurant Hall of Fame and the entire team past and present is proud to be named again in 2020 to Canadas Top 100.

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Now Dine OutSide could well be the perfect pandemic tonic, a boost to help get the region’s Covid battered hospitality industry at least part way back on track. Thanks to the fine weather, the timing should be just right, especially given the number of newly expanded patios, to facilitate safe dining and social distancing. 

Dine Outside summer savings

West-side Yuwa makes good use of parking spaces with a spacious, leafy patio

No surprise, the format is similar to the winter edition, with either prix fixe menus ($15, $25, $35 or $45), special promos or take-away and picnic packs—to enjoy on The City of Vancouver’s new temporary pop-up plazas.

Also replicated are the usual special hotel offers, that should appeal to the large number of BC residents staying close to home this summer, making it easy for out of town foodies who want to check out the Vancouver scene.

In addition, it’s a solid testament to the considerable work put in by the hospitality, restaurant and food-services community over the safe reopening phase. While there may have been some lapses they’ve been few and far between and quickly addressed. 

In short, Dine Outside is a solid if cautious sign that the recovery is under way.

“Our restaurant and hospitality partners who make up an important part of our tourism industry have been hard at work the last few months to ensure the safety and health of patrons,” says Tourism Vancouver CEO Royce Chwin. “There’s never been a better time to explore what our city is dishing up!”

It’s also a feather in the cap for the community, which has largely taken to heart and diligently acted upon the government’s guidance and leadership under Dr. Bonnie Henry.

Dine OutSide will run from August 21 to September 21, 2020. And my guess is there’s a good chance it may be here to stay, at least for a year or two …

There’s no time like the present to not only make the most of the fine weather while it’s here but also show your support for your favourite local haunt—or discover others.

More to come soon here.

Follow @DineOutVanFest on Instagram and Twitter and @DineOutVanFestival on Facebook for culinary inspiration. #DineOutSideVancouver.

Key Dine OutSide Dates:

August 13, 2020 – Restaurant and hotel offers available at dineoutside.ca

August 21, 2020 – Dine OutSide begins!

From the release:

About Dine OutSide
Produced by Tourism Vancouver, Dine OutSide is a summertime food and drink celebration. Community Partners include Downtown Vancouver BIA, Gastown BIA, Kitsilano 4th Avenue BIA, Mount Pleasant BIA, South Granville BIA, West End BIA, West Broadway BIA, The Vancouver Sun, The Province, SMC Communications, Breaking Bread and Kubera. Dine OutSide runs from August 21 to September 21, 2020. www.dineoutside.ca

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Yesterday Provence Marinaside announced its reopening for dining-in. I believe their impeccably thought out measures exemplify our hospitality community’s understanding of the need to get things right.

An early adopter

Provence was among those who moved quickly to take out and delivery when others initially closed. In early April, Owner and Executive chef Jean Francis told me: “You have to be agile to survive. Our main concern is how to continue to serve our patrons while keeping them and our staff safe. We were one of the first restaurants to come up with the idea of take out. This was entirely new for us. I have a wonderful staff and we are constantly brainstorming ideas.”

Quaglia and crew came up with the idea of fully prepped meal ‘kits’ that you could finish in your own kitchen—with the help of a video included. Their French Cooking Made Easy Kit was so well received that five others followed, including a Prawns Provençal kit and a roast chicken kit.

They’re still offered for takeout, along with many other dishes as well as popular grocery items. Provence was also quick to take advantage of the change in liquor laws that now allows take out / delivery of alcohol. They offer it at half price during Happy Hour with any meal order. (Read more about Provençe’s extensive wine program here.)

Safety is paramount. Says Quaglia, “As we now carefully re-open our restaurant, we want you to know that we are committed to the health and safety of our staff and our guests. We’ve actually been serving inside for the past week but wanted to do a soft re-opening to ensure we had all the enhanced health and safety processes perfected. We are confident that we are now in that position.”

Patios: Outside is definitely ‘in’

Like others’ Provence’s new business model is somewhat daunting. Prior to Covid-19, including TWB (The Wine Bar) and patios, the restaurant could seat 159 people. The new arrangement accommodates only 60, with socially distanced tables on the patios and inside, while TWB within remains closed. 

However, given the fast tracked and flexible patio options introduced by the city on May 27, I’d be tempted to apply to remove street parking and expand the outside seating area (above) to the edge of the boulevard. It’s a model that could and should be used in several parts of the city. Even though temporary (through October 31st), it’s a welcome measure to bolster a battered industry that needs all the help it can get. (If you’re a restaurateur I highly recommend reading the Price Tags article and checking the link to City Hall’s patio program.)

You can find here all Provence’s menu details and hours, as well as comprehensive info on their health and safety protocols here.

Provence Marinaside is also supporting The Downtown Eastside Women’s Centre with the donation of meals and funds. Check out the donation option on their website if you’d like to lend a hand. 

“Thank you to everyone who has been so supportive of Provence during this challenging time,” says Quaglia. “We could not have survived this long without you and I look forward to welcoming you back to the restaurant.”

Other stalwarts who have recently confirmed reopening include: Cardero’s, The French Table, Glowbal Group, Jules, Kafka Café, Nightingale, Nuba, Tractor and many, many more… 

All images courtesy of Provence Marinaside / Emrys Horton, EPH Photography

The post Provence Marinaside: A Tale of Pandemic Resolve appeared first on hiredBelly.com.

They came for the food, of course. But, in a Vancouver still ruled by straight-jacket liquor laws they came also for late night tea pots—filled with beer. The code name was cold tea. And all you had to do was ask.

That got me thinking back to when a handful of places employed creative solutions to circumvent draconian liquor regs. It was no laughing matter. You had to be careful: a bad relationship with your inspector could essentially spell doom. ‘BYO’ was the simple solution for Chinese restaurants, which often didn’t have a formal wine and spirits list. Or, if they did, it started and ended with Kressmans.

Legendary Vong’s Kitchen (on Fraser St.) was a favourite. The Vong family welcomed everyone with open arms, for the likes of Jade chicken and Atomic rice. And wine left in the lilliputian kitchen was discreetly decanted—yes, into teapots. Occasionally, on birthdays, ‘hot tea’ would materialize. It was Crown Royal…

At Cold Tea, owners Ron Cheng (ex Hapa Izakaya, The Parlour, Tap and Barrel) and Paul Rivas (who owns The Parlour & Bodega on Main) are quick to advise they’ll be adhering strictly to the law. Eventually, evening cocktails will be mixed and served table-side from daytime dim sum carts. But all that will have to come later. 

Postponed by Pandemic

Cold Tea had planned to open in late March. However, the pandemic’s arrival forced them to put everything on hold. But the restaurant is now open for in-house dining in addition to offering a limited delivery (Uber Eats, Doordash) and takeout (Tock) menu. Acknowledging that this is a difficult time in history, they want to create change within their community. Cold Tea will donate 10% of all sales for their first two weeks to Black Lives Matter.

East meets west

Think modern Chinese meets Spanish tapas, with a healthy dash of Vietnamese, courtesy of Chef  Thien Vuong (former head chef at The Parlour, Bodega on Main, and Frankie G’s), with smart cocktails from partner, Joe Cheng (ex Minami).

Mainstays range from Xiao Long Bao to bahn mi baos, lettuce wraps, veg and meat spring rolls, 5-spice carbonara with Lai Fun rice noodle, lemongrass rice bowls and pho.

“Eventually large family style dinners will include Peking duck, suckling pig and grilled fish. The lighter side of the menu has many gluten free and vegetarian options as well. Full family style options will not be served until restrictions lift.”

You can order from the takeout and delivery menus here.

In the interest of health safety and food security, “nobody will be allowed in the space for precautionary reasons, this will apply to the delivery drivers as well. Hand sanitizers and lysol wipes will be made available right at the front, and will be mandatory for all drivers/guests to use before picking up any orders. Protective gloves and masks will be worn by all staff that interact with outside guests.”

“The 130 person seated restaurant (160 standing) is designed to be unpretentious, inviting, modern, earthy, with classic chinese elements. There is a large abacus (Chinese calculator) at the entrance and Asian artwork and murals around the space.

“There is a larger than life mural in the main dining room by Vancouver’s legendary Sace Forand. The partners decided to keep the massive chandelier and original vases from Tsui Hang on display for some nostalgia.”

We wish them every success!

Cold Tea Restaurant

1193 Granville Street,

Vancouver, BC

604-423-2653

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Some restaurants just strike a chord. That’s very much the case with Bodega on Main, which has recently arrived almost right beside Campagnolo. I’ll admit that I went to check it out with a mix of trepidation and curiosity. After all, the original La Bodega was the first restaurant I went to in Vancouver. And that was a few years ago.

In those days I was “fresh off the boat” from Montréal. I was desperately homesick for my adopted home town back east. And very much missing my Quebec friends. Vancouver seemed cold and unwelcoming.

La Bodega was (not even) a block away from my hotel. (That building is now also about to be transformed into a condo tower…) I was staying in the hotel waiting for my things to arrive from Montreal, so I could move into an apartment, all but impossible to find in zero vacancy Vancouver.

One of the many things that I couldn’t understand about Vancouver was why the sidewalks rolled up at a ridiculously early hour. And the bars closed—unless you knew where to go. Luckily, I bumped into a bunch of friendly types at the hotel lounge (including everyone from high riggers in town for a few days to car salesmen from West Broadway). And they did know: La Bodega.

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Bodega on Main: in an impressive, heritage setting; and already bustling

Here’s what I wrote in the Vancouver Courier …

There’s something reassuring about restaurants that endure the passage of time — and, at least in Vancouver’s case, the rigours of development. Such is the case at Bodega on Main, the reincarnation of La Bodega, which earlier this year shuttered the Hornby Street premises it had occupied for close to 45 years.

La Bodega was a Spanish outpost on the West Coast, a haven for homesick Spaniards who would meet for tapas, conversation and, of course, to witness epic football encounters between Barça and Réal. Later came the Chateau Madrid, Vancouver’s sole Spanish formal room, though it yielded in time to tapas and informality.

The “new” Bodega (dutifully shorn of its definite article in current vogue) has a strong connection to the old in Paul Rivas, son of Francisco Rivas, who co-founded La Bodega with his friend José Rivas, in 1971.

Lovers of the original will find plenty to cheer about in the new space. Bodega on Main (1014 Main St., 604-565-8815) already benefits from its impressively restored heritage surroundings, with soaring ceilings and plans for a private party room downstairs in what used to be an old pool hall.  

There’s also no shortage of familiar faces among the staff, as many stayed on to work in the new restaurant. In fact, if the room feels similar, it’s likely because many of the furnishings were saved from demolition, including the giant, dark oak bar and backdrop, still the heart of the room, and even the washroom doors.

The original La Bodega hailed from a time when actual Spanish tapas were very much a novelty. Happily, they’re still the backbone of the menu here, with a wealth of old favourites reintroduced, including spicy chorizo a la Parrilla, albongigas, gambas al ajillo (garlic prawns), gazpacho and calamares fritos.

Wines are dutifully Spanish — and well-priced — such as the quaffable Segura Viudas Cava, $30 a bottle, or $7 glass. Do some digging and you’ll even find a worthy Torres brandy to finish things up, also $7.

Even though it had only been open a few days the night I visited, the place was packed, including more than a few regulars from the old location. All of which goes to show that despite the inevitable pace of change, there’s still plenty room for tradition done right. Salud!

Belly’s Budget Best
• Domaine Gayda Grenache 2013

Easy-drinking Languedoc red invites with peppery and red berried notes before a gently spicy and plush palate with a good close. Look for the Flying “Free Spirit” label. Value priced at BCLS, $12.99, through October. 89 pts.

The post Bodega on Main: A Worthy Salute (Updated) appeared first on hiredBelly.com.

Without doubt, any restaurant which enjoys an abundance of outdoor seating will be at an advantage. Or, at least have a chance of survival. For sure, Popina fits that bill. There’s no shortage of benches  around the canteen (as well as other outside market areas). Moreover, its menu was always based on a take-away format. Any formal seating options will have to wait a while. But the situation is evolving and the plan is to open the patio as soon as safety considerations allow.

As the dining public regains confidence these are the kinds of places to which they’ll head first. However, as kitchens also are affected by distancing requirements (that will limit staff), diners should not show up expecting full menus. More than likely, restaurateurs will be offering realistic variations on the take-out menus they already have in place. Never mind, after two months in confinement the chance to leave the house for a meal will be appealing to many.

From May 20th, Popina says it’s offering “a limited menu of sandwiches and burgers, fries, Puffcream and drinks, including wine, beer and bottled cocktails. Food is available for takeout, or delivery via Door Dash and Uber Eats, from 12pm to 6pm Wednesday to Sunday.”

Right now I can think of nothing more appealing than hopping on a False Creek Ferry to enjoy a burger or bite of great local seafood—and plenty of fresh air. See you there!

Read more about Popina in my original post.

False Creek Ferries, a cool way to reach Popina on Granville Island

The post Popina Canteen Reopens for Take-Out, Delivery appeared first on hiredBelly.com.

(Press release)

Earlier this year, John Bishop announced that he was closing Bishop’s on August 1 after 35 years as one of Vancouver’s most popular restaurants. But COVID-19 has changed all that and Bishop’s will now remain open until the end of the year.

“Just before COVID arrived, we announced that we were closing after 35 years and I wanted to give our customers the chance to dine with us one last time,” said Bishop. “We were even going to organize special theme nights as a way to celebrate and thank our customers. Then along came COVID-19 and suddenly, like everyone else, we were closed. Now that we’re open again, albeit with social distancing, we want to give our customers the chance to join us and say good-bye. In fact, our customers have said the new social distancing with fewer tables is more romantic with just 20 guests rather than our usual 40. Who knew there could be a silver lining to a pandemic, but there you go, love always seems to find a way.”

Bishop said his iconic farm-to-table restaurant in Kitsilano now offers two 20-person sittings, open Tuesday to Saturday 5:30 to closing. Take-out is also available for those who are more comfortable enjoying Bishop’s at Home.

“We’re going to make the most of the next five months so that when we finally close our doors at the end of the year, we have absolutely no regrets,” added Bishop. “We’re going to have a great time, we’re going to cook some fabulous food, and we’re going to enjoy our customers and show them how much we appreciate their friendship and business over the past 35 years.”

Updated May 2, 2020.

From today’s CBC story…

After 35 years at his eponymous fine dining restaurant, John Bishop was going to retire in August.

But amid the COVID-19 pandemic, Bishop has delayed his retirement. He is planning to offer take-out in the next few weeks.

While his landlord is waiving his rent, Bishop still finds himself in the same boat as most other restaurant owners, needing to lay off staff — some of whom have worked with him for decades — and relying on federal and provincial relief. 

*****

John Bishop has announced plans to close his restaurant, to write and spend more time with his family.

Arguably no other Vancouver restaurateur has had such a prolonged—and profound—impact on BC’s culinary scene as John Bishop. He was among the very first to appreciate the possibility of true regional cuisine—when it was barely conceivable for most to imagine. Along the way he championed small producers, well before farm to table became a reality. And he has likely mentored more young chefs—many now successful restaurateurs themselves— than anyone else in the city.

He also enjoys a well deserved reputation as, truly, the ‘consummate host’, a low key, always modest provider of impeccable service, unswerving detail and high quality ingredients.

Here’s what I wrote in last year’s Essential Vancouver:

Land of the Locavore

The Flourishing of Farm to Table Cuisine 

Once decidedly Eurocentric, Vancouver has changed radically since the millennium, especially on the plate. Not only does its cuisine reflect our  broader ethnic diaspora. We now utilize far more of the bounty that belongs to British Columbia. But it wasn’t always so.

Celebrated locavore John Bishop reflects on the mid-1980s, back when he established his eponymous restaurant. “When I started in fine dining,” he recalls, “you wouldn’t ever change your menu—in fact seasonality really didn’t play into it at all. You might get strawberries from Richmond and you might get apples from the Okanagan…”  Rarely was interest shown in local ingredients, other than shrimp (served as scampi), Dungeness crab and salmon. The latter, ironically, which was available in abundance then, was essentially considered “low-brow”, according to Bishop.

The pioneering restaurateur, who says he gained some inspiration from  California’s Alice Waters and Jonathan Waxman, decided the time was ripe to use, wherever possible, solely local ingredients. After a few slim months post opening, his hunch proved correct. And within a few years Bishop’s had became a fixture, and also a beacon for others, as its owner connected with an array of growers, fishers and farmers, some who delivered to his  kitchen. 

***

Thank, you, John, for all that you have given us.

Oh, and here’s Renée Doruyter’s 1986 review…

Vancouver Province critic Renée Doruyter gave Bishop’s an early thumbs-up

Here’s the release:

VANCOUVER, BC: Bishop’s, one of Vancouver’s best-loved restaurants, is closing its doors August 1^st, as proprietor John Bishop retires to write and spend more time with his family. Opened in 1985, a year before Expo 86, Bishop’s is synonymous with farm-to-table ingredients, west coast hospitality, and great food.

“It has been a terrific run,” said Bishop. “After 35 years, our customers have become good friends, but now I want to spend more time with my own family and get to work on another book. I also want to use these next few months to say thank you to my customers and our entire team, the people who made all of this possible. My name may be on the door, but Bishop’s is all about a team effort, and that includes the dozens of local farms and suppliers who provide us with the incredible seasonal ingredients we prepare for your plate.”

Bishop, 75, began his career at 15, filling creamer jugs and delivering breakfast trays at the Elephant & Castle Hotel near his home in Newtown, Wales. A year later, he was accepted into the Llandudno Hotel and Catering College. In 1973, Bishop left Britain for Canada, becoming a Canadian citizen in 2000.

“I fell in love with Vancouver immediately, and that’s never changed in 47 years,” added Bishop who has authored four cookbooks on everything from the importance of fresh, local ingredients, to favorite family recipes from his own home kitchen, but for his customers and staff, Bishop’s legendary hospitality is his hallmark.

“John Bishop treated his staff like family,” said Chris Stewart, who is the owner of Sorella, La Buca and the Sardine Can, and a Bishop’s alumnus. “If you needed something to do your job better, it was there the next day.”

Iron Chef Rob Feenie, who did a short stint at Bishop’s in 1988, added that John Bishop remains “the best host in town.”

Vikram Vij, who opened the original Vij’s Restaurant on Broadway after four years at Bishop’s, said Bishop “has a subtle way of making every customer feel like they’re the most important person in the room.” James Barber, Canadian cookbook author and celebrated TV host wrote, “Bishop’s defines what a small restaurant ought to be.”

Recognized with a lifetime achievement award in 1997 by Vancouver Magazine, and again in 2016, Bishop is characterized by food critic and restaurant awards judge, Lee Man, as a pioneer who transformed Vancouver’s restaurants. “He helped us understand that our food ingredients have worth and value, and that they are just as good as anything else around the world,” explained Man in a Vancouver Magazine feature about Bishop.

Bishop said he will be organizing some special nights before he turns off the lights for the last time.

“I want to find some special ways to celebrate and thank our customers,” adds Bishop. “I might even try and get some of our alumni chefs back together for one incredibly memorable meal that hits all the high notes of the past 35 years.”

About Bishop’s Restaurant

Opened in 1985, located on 4^th Avenue in the heart of Kitsilano, Vancouver, Bishop’s showcases fresh local seasonal menus in an intimate fine dining atmosphere.
http://bishopsonline.com

Hamming it up, John Bishop: one of regional cuisine’s most effective and vocal supporters, TP photo

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Hy’s Encore: Over 50 years is pretty impressive in a place as fickle as vancouver

Updated April 27, 2020

Hy’s—COVID-19 style

Hy’s has announced a take-out service (in both Vancouver and Whistler), offering almost all of its menu items at 20% off, along with several ‘prepped’ stalwarts that you can finish at home.

“In celebration of the launch of the new ‘Hy’s at Home’ menu, the iconic steakhouse will be offering guests 20 percent off regular food menu prices for a limited time period. Take-out meals can be customized for singles, couples and families with orders easily placed online with contactless payment and touchless pick-up at the restaurant from 3 p.m. to 8 p.m.”

“All tips received on takeout orders will be donated to Greater Vancouver Food Bank. The ‘Hy’s at Home’ menu will be available for pick-up at the restaurant at 637 Hornby Street starting Tuesday April 28 and in Whistler at 4308 Main Street starting Friday, May 1.

 

I’ve left intact my original post from a few years ago to help get you in the mood. It tells you a little about Hy’s history and mentions a few of the dishes that happen to be available for take out.

After you’ve finished reading Find more info here  (Scroll to the bottom of the page and click ‘order online’.)

*****

…Of Cheese Toast, Steak, Whisky & Whispers

The Hired Belly is happily ensconced at Hy’s Encore, cosseted in the city’s most cherished culinary time warp. 

On the rare occasions I get to Hy’s, I hunker down in a cozy banquette and marvel at such an unabashed anachronism. There aren’t too many places where you can still drink in the ‘old’ Vancouver but at Hy’s you can do just that, by the magnum.

For here—from the oversized leather chairs to the clear screen that frames what may well have been the city’s first ‘open’ kitchen (well, visible and cutting edge for its 60s era)—time stands still.

A definite cosseting feel (courtesy Hy’s Canada)

Somehow, for all the glitz and bling of others it’s Hy’s Encore’s plush, shamelessly dated (smartly refurbished) surroundings and reassuring, old-style intimate feel that draws me back for more.

Why? Because, above all, Hy’s has character. And that character—of which so many of today’s rooms today are so devoid—counts for plenty. You can almost hear the paneled walls talk—if only! The stories of what went down at Hy’s (and not only here but across the country) are the stuff of legends.

However, my favourite Hy Aisenstat anecdote shows  up in Peter C. Newman’s ground-breaking book, The Canadian Establishment. When the original (upstairs) Calgary restaurant burned to the ground, asked what could have caused the fire, Hy responded (likely without missing a beat):

“It was either a tri-light in the second floor or an Israelite in the basement.”

Hard to resist: Hy’s bar (courtesy Hy’s Canada)

Wander into Hy’s vestibule and ornate bar and it’s not hard to be transported back to a time when this was home to the city’s power base—a lingering lunch haven for Howe Street movers and shakers with a line-up of double martinis to match.

Hy’s cheese toast. Resistance is futile

Tradition dictates every meal starts (well, after a Caesar) with Hy’s legendary cheese toast: Hot, sneaky little orange Cheddar packages (delivered under a blanket of tin foil) that, no matter how hard you try, will ultimately prove irresistible. (They’ll also happily put some in a box that you can take home and warm up later.)

We haven’t tracked the menu that closely but you can be sure, except for the addition of some extra seafood plates and a few smaller portions, it really hasn’t changed that much in 50 years. Which is not a bad thing at all.

Classic prawn cocktail …

In fact, the classic prawn cocktail (complete with secret sauce) is probably the sole survivor of its kind in the city.  And the prawns are almost as big as a small lobster tail.

Ultimately, though, it is still all about the steak: Hy’s uses only Prime-graded beef and puts immense effort into maintaining its (rare) supply, perfectly aged and grilled always precisely as requested. The Prime filet mignon medallions, swathed in a brandy and wild mushroom sauce, usually get our vote. Then again, so does Hy’s New York strip, drenched in a respectably piquant green peppercorn and brandy sauce. The meat is always superb both in flavour and texture.

At the heart of it all, perfectly aged and precisely grilled steaks

Oh, and they really do cook it exactly how you want it.  And if you’re looking for a bottle of serious Brunello di Montalcino (such as Altesino), or BR Cohn Olive Hill Cab, they can probably produce it from their cellar.

And did we mention the French fries? (Although what happened to the shoe strings?)  And the  still formal, not too intimate but genuinely friendly service, from arguably the city’s most seasoned staff?

Wrap it up with a couple of shared desserts, like the velvet smooth cheesecake or creme brulée.

No skimping on the cheese plate…

Better still, go for the cheese plate which yields a good selection, properly matured and at room temperature, generous portions, and with thoughtfully cut bunches of grapes.

Tucked away upstairs, a panelled parlour rates among the best business rooms in town.

Price? Well, it’s kind of like that old Rolls Royce saying: “If you have to ask …”

The original Vancouver restaurant was Hy’s at the Sands Hotel (now the Best Western Plus Sands), which accounted for the second location being named Hy’s Encore. The Sands closed long ago, although I do vaguely remember leaving there after my brother-in-law’s stag. And Hy’s at the Mansion is also long gone. (But so, too, thankfully, is Romano’s Macaroni Grill).

Only the Encore lives on.

Or, as Hy’s likes to say: Some things never change: Thank God!

***

Find Take Out info here  (Scroll to the bottom of the page and click ‘order online’.)

(Hy’s really does have a fascinating history. Read more about it here.)

Hy’s Encore, 637 Hornby St., 604-683-6761

Hy’s Steakhouse & Cocktail Bar

The post Legendary Hy’s Encore: Ultimate Take Out Temptation appeared first on hiredBelly.com.

Updated May 4, 2020. It turns out that Bizou + Yukon have been pretty busy with their Tall Furry Human and Walky Lady, applying their poochy palates to (what else?) winemaking, of course. You can order a case of their wares here. Stay tuned for reviews coming shortly. 

Earls Ambleside

Cruising Ambleside with the Walky Lady we noticed that there are a lot of dogs that are super skinny – don’t those whippets get to eat? So, we put the human’s credit card to good use here. Not only do they give you 20% off on your pickup order but wine is half price. That’s all wine, all the time. Of course, we have to admit we’re pretty partial to Narrative XC Sparkling Rosé. It’s especially good with Earls Family Style Alfredo, although, honestly? It’s really all and only about the BBQ ribs. You know us. It’s really just a bone thing. Oh and—hello ….BACON! WoofwoofWoof.

Cactus Club

We like Cactus Club, especially the one on the water in Kelowna, where all the cool pooches hang out. Bizou always dreams of escaping on one of the big yachts docked nearby.  Last time we were there (before we had to self isolate in our portable dog house) she was crushing pretty hard on a bear of a St. Bernard. Then again, you know what they say: ‘What happens on the dock stays on the dock.’

Anyway back to Cactus take out:  that poke bowl is pretty tasty (besides, anything raw rocks, right?) but even though we do have a couple extra dew claws we did have a bit of tough time with the chopsticks. Our Tall Furry Human had to comb the sesame seeds out of our fur. Ewww! Maybe next time we should just order the doggy bowl…

Forage

Living out at The Ranch, as we do, people often just take us for a couple of long-haired yokels. Maybe it has something to do with those mud baths we enjoy so much—preferably right after our spa treatments. But we’re actually pretty sophisticated. To prove it we took to the West End of Vancouver and, can we ask, WHY do all the dogs here need to wear a sweater? And we take our work seriously, so, of course, we eat local and sustainable whenever possible. Forage has adapted its staff meals for take out. No surprise, we love the bison meatballs—and we always get an order of ginger molasses cookies, so we can reward our Tall Furry Human —but only when he’s been good, of course.

Nightingale

Normally we like to hang out in the bar here. Those high tops are just perfect for lounging—great for checking out the room for other pure-breds. We don’t think they let too many strays or cats in here, anyway. But you can’t be too careful these days. The take-out lineup is impressive. How about Cavatelli duck ragoût or pizza with roasted mushroom, fontina, confit garlic and arugula pesto? Probably could use a few more bones though, come to think of it. Osso Buco, anyone? Dig around on the wine list and you can find treats like Vintage Bub, Haywire Gamay 2017 and Narrative Non Fiction 2017. We also love that every order supports meal deliveries to front line medical staff at St.Paul’s Hospital.

Stable House

Don’t tell anyone, but Bizou has had a thing for that cute somm here ever since she saw him on their Instagram account … maybe something about lederhosen. Plus she says SoGra dogs and their humans are just a breed apart, even if they’d probably never cut it at The Ranch. Top tastes? Just about anything, but especially the patés and galettes. And, of course, we love their flight of Okanagan Crush Pad wines that includes that delicious Landrusco—which our Tall Furry Human made with Herr Lederhosen himself.

Tap & Barrel

“Some of the best dog watching in town,” according to Yukon, who says all the locations are great but especially likes the view from North Vancouver Shipyards, although he wonders why there aren’t more dog friendly parks over there. (He also secretly covets his own miniature barrel, like those Swiss dogs have, and wonders if T&B might help out.) Bizou’s big on the burgers here but thinks that the halloumi veg sandwich is a waste of time (one bite and poof). She’s more a poutine and pretzels kind of girl, anyway. But they’re both impressed by the Narrative White and Red, offered at half price all day.

Provence Marinaside

The next best place in the world to Summerlandia is the south of France, according to Bizou, who also insists she comes from a long line of Great Pyrenean ancestors that included royalty—and even became known as “The Royal Dog of France.” Bizou’s faves include the crab and shrimp cakes, best enjoyed in batches of six, or maybe the Lois Lake Steelhead—with a bottle of Haywire Pink Bub.  “Well, once a princess, always a princess,” observes Yukon. He loves the all day menu here. But he’s actually holding out for a guest appearance on one of chef Jean Francis’ French Food Made easy videos. “Boeuf Bourguignon would be nice,” he thinks. “Call my agent!”

Minami

It’s nice to be a big dog in Yaletown. It’s not something you see very often, so we do stand out a bit. Some of those little guys are really cute, although we have to wonder just what you do for living if you’re say, a dachshund, other than pose for a Road 13 label. Now people might think it’s a bit weird but we actually really like Aburi cuisine (we don’t see much at The Ranch). We share the occasional bento box with Tall Furry Human, and a bottle of Haywire Secrest Chardonnay. But when he’s not around we go full on Hamburg steak—Wagyu all the way, YESS! Doubles, please!

As you can tell, it’s 4PawsUp—all the way!

This post is brought to you by our furry four legged friends Yukon and Bizou, who (when they feel inclined) answer to their humans at Okanagan Crush Pad. Follow their new Instagram account @bizouyukon

The post Bizou+Yukon Celebrate #CanadianRestaurant #TakeOutDay appeared first on hiredBelly.com.

Tin Fish Gourmet is just that: a collection of easy and inexpensive meals made with all manner of canned seafood. The kind which you could—or should—have tucked away in a cupboard for times like this. It’s packed with good ideas (over 75 recipes) and tips to make a wealth of starters, mains, soups and salads. Plus even a few nifty canapés for your next socially distanced block or lobby party. Everything, indeed, from clams, oysters, shrimp, crabmeat, anchovies and—yes—sardines, comes from a tin. Even if you forgot to stock up (or were too fixated on TP), chances are you can even still buy it from London Drugs.

The other night I whipped up some Crab Risotto. And while it may not have been quite as tasty as freshly cooked Dungeness it was pretty decent. All this came a fraction of the price, with almost no effort. And  it was right off my kitchen shelves, these days a lot safer than your typical supermarket.

On the menu in the next few days? I’m thinking maybe Shrimp and Sweet Potato Cakes, Salmon and Broccoli Chowder, Clams and Mushroom Linguine. Well … there’s a bunch! Browsing Tin Fish Gourmet, I’d  forgotten how much this smart little book packs in.

Barbara-Jo McIntosh, at Books to Cooks, Vancouver, Tim Pawsey photo

It’s been a few years since Barbara-jo closed Books to Cooks. She’s since  decamped to France to open her Maison des Mots in La Charité-sur-Loire. (For more info reach her at 6ruedunord@gmail.com).  And even though I know she frequents the local market, I’m pretty sure there’s still the odd tin of something tucked away for times like these.

Tin Fish Gourmet sold out but was reprinted; and— if you care to go looking—can still be found on-line.

Merci, Barbara-jo!

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