Our gallery shared a sidewalk loading bay with of Berry Brothers & Rudd, whose original store was nearby. The lift went down to space that joined our basements. Lots of things went back and forth. BBR supplied the pre-prandial Sherry, the pre ’40 winks’ Port, and everything in between. Sadly, the little shop is no more. But those memories are indelible.

The view from above, with Bordeaux on top…

There’s something about New District which reminds me a little of Berry Brothers’ emporium. It’s not nostalgia. Nor is it that charming but not overdone old world feel. More likely it’s the array of distinct and interesting wines driven by a culture of passion for discovery.

A nose for the unsung

New District head wine honcho DJ Kearney

That selection comes as no surprise. The chief wine wrangler here is none other than all-round guru and highly respected educator DJ Kearney. She’s been working as New District Director of Wine for a few years. And her efforts are apparent. A glance around these well stocked shelves reveals wines that you won’t find anywhere else.
Look up to the top shelf and you’ll notice some pretty serious Bordeaux. In this neighbourhood there’s no shortage of interest, says Kearney. But there’s also plenty to peruse lower down. And the bottles are arranged by variety rather than by country. That’s a good thing, says the buyer, as it encourages people to broaden their horizons.

“D.J.” is well known as a champion of the underdog. She revels in unearthing and suggesting gems from lesser known or undiscovered regions such as Jura and elsewhere.

In my quick tour of the shelves I discovered everything from the likes of BC Biodynamic newcomer SOAHC’s vibrant and pure Chardonnay (Fruitvale) and…

Donnafugata’s beautifully structured, mineral toned Tancredi (Sicily) to …

Bruyer Raats’ brilliant Cabernet Franc (Stellenbosch). Bruyer likes to say it sports “the elegance of Burgundy, the spiciness of Rhone and structure of Bordeaux all in one variety!” And it does.

We don’t see nearly enough wines from Hawke’s Bay, probably because smart Kiwis drink it all themselves. However, here you can fid Te Mata Gamay Noir 2013, ripe and brimming with vibrant red berries. But also supple and elegant with some spicy notes before a solid finish, it’s a perfect example.

Also here is the inaugural Pinot Noir from Mirabel, the new label created by Reimer Family Vineyard, for which New District has the exclusive.

 The Case for Wine

The other thing about London is that we rarely purchased by the bottle. Buying wine or any spirits was pretty simple. You picked up the phone and called your wine merchant. They’d take your order and the goods would appear within a few days. Buying by the case just made sense.
(For beer it was different. My uncle’s trusty WWII respirator bag was just the right size for three bottles of Whitbread. He would swing by Moorgate’s King’s Head on the way home and, with a cheery “Check for Gas!”, put the bag on the bar. The empties would be switched for full bottles and we’d be on our way in a minute flat. Unless we stopped for a pint …)
Thriving store aside, New District’s main wine business is carried out very much on line. It’s the reason the company started in the first place.  The folks behind this venture have connections to success stories such as Seattle’s Best Coffee and SPUD. That’s Vancouver’s organic grocery delivery service—the second largest online grocer in North America.

New District Wine Club

Finds delivered to your door, once a month

Just as wine by the case is growing in popularity, increasingly, wine clubs are where you can discover those harder to find drops. New District has just launched theirs. And it looks very promising. There’s no fee to sign on and no cancellation charge. (You can also skip a month if you need to—with decent notice.) The themes, says Kearney, are value and diversity. Here’s what’s in this month’s box. It’s a solid mix of styles and regions. A good deal at $165, which includes delivery.

“Our inaugural offering celebrates three central principles of wine: diversity, discovery and value. First is an iconic B.C. Pinot Gris from none other than famed Blue Mountain Winery. Uruguay, one of the wine world’s most talked about ‘new’ regions is the home of our second white – yes, Uruguay! The reds start with a juicy Gamay from the Niagara region. Then, two Cabernet blends show fascinating regional distinction – one from Australia and one from the South Okanagan. Finally, a micro-production red that is sold out everywhere: Kitten Swish Grenache is the brainchild of one of Canada’s most famous sommeliers.”

Click here to sign up for the New District wine club.

The post New District: Making the Case for Interesting Wine appeared first on hiredBelly.com.

I’ve been following this new enterprise with interest.

I got to know Jessica Luongo during a visit to the Veneto, some 18 months ago. At the time I was impressed not only by her knowledge but also by the plans she was developing for their agency. Oh, and she’s lots of fun. As is Marisa.

But these two are serious about what they do.

What’s particularly interesting is how they’re building their portfolio. By concentrating on lesser known wines they’re already carving out a niche for themselves. The wineries they’ve chosen to represent are catching the attention of wine geeks. Read: savvy young sommeliers. Not to mention people who generally appreciate more esoteric tastes,

Amovino also has a knack with social media (they come by it naturally). That alone should serve as a lesson to some folks I can think of who still don’t take it seriously.

Inclined to ‘real’ wines

Amovino focuses a fair bit on natural wines, which are a hot topic these days. I asked them what they would say to people who haven’t yet tried natural wines. (They like to call them ‘real’ wines.)

“If people are concerned with where their food comes from, they need to understand what’s being put in their wine,” says Luongo. She says wine drinkers should have a good look at the brands they’re buying and what’s in their cellar..

“First and foremost, new labeling rules are going to open that up a lot. People are going to start wondering ‘where does this come from, how was it made, and how did it get here?'”

Varas says first time wine drinkers should judge a wine by its taste.

“It really should be more about if they like it. If they do, then explain how much that’s part of it.”

Amovino suggests the best thing is to ask questions and understand where the wine comes from.

I’ve had a couple of opportunities to taste through their growing portfolio. I appreciate what they’re doing to try to shape different tastes.

Here’s the News

Here’s the story from this weekend’s North Shore News …

Jessica Luongo is no stranger to wine. She used to work for her grandfather. Larry Luongo is a successful, longtime importer who’s a fixture on the Vancouver scene. That was until the granddaughter decided it was time to strike out on her own. And did so with her Nonno’s full blessing.

Luongo teamed up with business partner Marisa Varas to form their own agency. Amovino Distributors (a wickedly smart name) is already singing a very different tune. This youthful North Shore duo is promising to rewrite the book on “How to Run a Smart Wine Agency.” Amovino is all about introducing consumers to new tastes and ideas.

The secret of success lies in the specific wines you choose—and how you bring them to the market. While mainly working with imports, Amovino recently signed with Blue Grouse.

Amovino: changing tastes

Luongo and Varas are tapping into a shift by informed drinkers. They’re moving away from commercial styled or sweet tastes, opting for more nuanced wines. Much of the time they’re made with ‘minimal intervention’ or naturally.

Luongo says they like to use the term ‘Real Wine’ and all that entails. However, she insists: “We don’t want to be dogmatic or religious about natural wine and how to define it.”

“We try to work with small lot wineries, family producers—people who care about what they’re putting in their wines,” she says. She compares natural or ‘real’ wine to the Slow Food movement.

Amovino does focus on representing organic, biodynamic and natural producers—but not in every instance.

“As long as people are caring and their messages and ideals align with ours, that’s what counts.” “Plus ‘quality’ and ‘delicious,’ of course!”

Says Varas: “The fact that they’re organic and made with intention is just a side note.”

“We like to say: ‘the wines are great—and by the way, did you know they’re made organically?’”

As I nosed through this happily esoteric portfolio I found more than few good drops. These are wines that require you to think a little outside of the box but reward you for your curiosity. Here’s a fun foursome worth a look …

• SYN + ‘white dot’ Moschofilero Roditis 2015

Yes, this Greek wine is a bit of a mouthful in more ways than one. But Moschofilero (think ‘Moscow- fill-ero’) is fun to discover, especially this. Up front floral notes and wicked, bright acidity plus a streak of saline with zesty lemon peel in the end. With summer right around the corner, one sip  and maybe a little tzatziki and you’ll be dreaming of Santorini. (Screwcap) $21 – 90 pts. PWS

• Tinita Vinas de Verdejo 2015 (DO Rueda)

Some serious Verdejo to prime your summer tapas palate. Pretty gold in the glass and stone fruit on top. Limestone soils deliver wicked mineral intensity. A polished, complex, well textured middle of apple and citrus notes. Plus a lingering but clean end. Organic / biodynamic 91pts. $25. PWS

• SYN Mountain Fish Agiorgitiko 2014 (Nemea)

‘Agiorgitiko’ means ‘St. George’s grape’. Up front black fruit with refreshing, juicy acidity. Pleasing, mulberry and herbal notes with a touch of earthy spice and a lengthy finish. BCLS $18.99 – 90 pts.

• Cerejeiras Tinto 2015 (Lisbon DOP)

A good value, lip smacking Portuguese blend of mainly Castelao (60%) plus Aragonez and Touriga Nacional. Perfect to kick off barbecue season. Plush, rounded red fruit with a vibrant, red current and raspberry palate. Easy tannins and some spicy notes. All hand harvested and not a toothpick in sight. c. $15 –  91 pts. PWS. Also by the glass at Nightingale.

***

Other Amovino reviews to come.

The post Amovino: It’s How to Say ‘I Love Wine’ appeared first on hiredBelly.com.

I regularly meet people disappointed in being not able track down wines from smaller wineries, whose wines aren’t widely available.
At Garagiste North: “The Small Guys” Wine Festival, you’ll find only wineries making under 2,000 cases a year. The name “garagiste” alludes to a small group of Bordeaux winemakers. Tired of being hampered by DOC regulations, they took their winemaking ‘underground’, often into their own garage.
This ‘little festival that could’, which was first held in 2014, has turned into not one but three hot tickets.

This year, 2017, sees three Garagiste North tastings, in Vancouver, Parksville and Penticton, as follows:
VANCOUVER: Saturday April 22nd 4-6:30 pm.
Art Works Gallery – 225 Smithe Street.
Wine tasting+ live music+Tacofino taco truck. +Marquis Wine Cellars pop up shop selling Garagiste wines on site.
$49 -CLICK HERE FOR TICKETS

PARKSVILLE: Saturday, July 29th 4-6:30 pm
Parksville Museum – 1245 East Island Hwy+ pop up wine shop selling Garagiste wines on site.
Wine tasting+live music+yummy food
$49 – CLICK HERE FOR TICKETS

PENTICTON: Sunday, August 27th 3-5:30 pm
Canadian Tire Garden Centre – 960 Railway Street
Wine tasting+live music+yummy food+Fairview Liquor Store pop up shop selling Garagiste wines on site.
$49 – CLICK HERE FOR TICKETS

Even though that first Garagiste North festival happened only a few years ago, the grapevine has been doing its job. In 2015 the UK’s Financial Times named Garagiste North among “Five of the best: wine festivals” held around the world.

What makes it so special? When you think about it, it was people like this who got the whole BC wine thing started. That was when the only wineries on the landscape were a few commercial juice giants. In part, that’s why this particular festival so unique.

If you want to taste; and hear it like it is from the folks who happily get their hands dirty at every stage, book in quick for this truly taste-worthy afternoon.
(Partial proceeds benefit Garagiste North Wine Study Scholarship at Okanagan College, which helps people in the community get involved in the industry.)

Garagiste participants Andrew Stone of Anarchist Mountain Vineyards (l) and Bradley ‘Black Cloud’ Cooper

Garagiste North participants

(with more to come)

Anarchist Mountain Vineyard
Anthony Buchanen
BC Wine Studio
Bella Wines
Black Cloud
Black Market Wine Co.
Cana Vines
Corcelettes Winery
Forbidden Fruit
Kitsch Wines
Les Dames Wine
Marichel Vineyard
Marionette
Nagging Doubt
Niche Wine Co
Nighthawk Vineyards Phasion Estate Winery
River Stone
Roche
Saxon
Seven Directions
Symphony

The post Garagiste North: The Small Guys Wine Festival appeared first on hiredBelly.com.

Every wine region has its own, ‘signature’ wine or style, blend or variety. The Germans remain Riesling champions of the world. Italy’s Veneto lays claim to the uniqueness of apassimento and Amarone. The Chileans still care about Carmenere (though less so, perhaps, these days). And the French have a lock down on Champagne, no matter how many imitations pop up.

It’s hard to argue with Argentina’s unqualified success Malbec. The country has almost 40,000 hectares of the variety planted. About 86 percent is in Mendoza.

The variety offers everything people say they want in a red grape. Made well, it’s soft, supple, approachable, layered, quite complex and well reflects its terroir. In blends—in concert with others—it can shine.

Malbec World Day rolls around this year on April 17th. In anticipation I’ve spent the last few days exploring more Malbec than I taste in a year. One sure way to get a good snapshot of what’s out there.

In Malbec, Argentina truly does has something for everyone.

If you’re someone who shops on a budget you’ll know there are abundant choices and styles. Varying degrees of oak from subtle to sledgehammer—often well under the $20 sweet spot.

Yet, dig just a little deeper and you’ll be well rewarded.

Malbec evolves

Malbec is no longer the homogenous entity it once was. Argentina has been working hard on new plantings, especially at higher elevations. So much so that many producers now state on the label the height of the vineyards in metres. The impact of these higher plantings is significant. Higher elevations translate into bigger diurnals. The wider difference between warm days and cool nights translates into more acidity and structure.
These are my top scoring and best value wines of the week.

Bodega Argento Organic Malbec Reserva 2014

(Uco Valley, 1,090 m.) The purest expression of the variety, aromas of black and blue fruit. On the palate, cassis, blackberry, hints of spice, a little minerality. Seamless tannins and measured French oak through a lengthy end. 92 pts. Alberto Antonini consults. Why am I not surprised? $25-$27 at private wine stores, including Dollarton, The Gull and online from New District. The ‘Classic’ Argento Malbec ($17-$18) also offers excellent value, 89 pts).

Kaiken Malbec Reserva 2014

From a warmer site at 950 metres. Sustainably produced. Forward cherry and spice notes with a fruit driven palate of red and blue fruit. Good mouthfeel and approachable tannins. Excellent value. $15-$18 Private Stores

Zuccardi Q Malbec 2013 (Uco Valley)

From select old vine parcels. Made in a state of the art winery, built around scores of concrete eggs. Violets and black fruit up front. Blackberry and mulberry on a juicy, well balanced palate with firm tannins and a spicy close. 91 pts. $21.99 BCLS

Finca Decero Remelinos Single Vineyard Malbec 2014 (Mendoza)

Consistently one of the best Malbecs available in the local market, this wine comes from a stunning site at 1,050 m. in the Andean foothills. Luscious black fruit and violet, underpinned by juicy acidity with great length. Integrated tannins from well managed oak, through a plush, lingering finish. Everything Wine. 92 pts. $23.99

Pascual Toso Limited Edition Malbec 2014.

From a long established producer (since 1890) known for value wines. Blackberry and coconut on the nose from predominant American oak. A plush and plummy palate of black fruit and vanilla wrapped in approachable tannins. Good value…  91 pts. BCLS $17.99.

Cuma Organic Malbec 2016

The ‘deal’ of the flight, not complex but well made and certified organic. Lifted red fruit and plummy aromas followed by a fresh, red berry palate. Damson and vanilla, medium bodied with a hint of spice in the finish. Made by major producer Michel Torino. 89 pts. BCLS $12.49
Check with your local store for details of free tastings on Saturday, April 8th, 16th and at other times.

The post 6 Good Value Wines to Celebrate Malbec World Day appeared first on hiredBelly.com.

If you ask someone to name a New World wine producer, they’ll probably mention California, Chile, Australia or Argentina. However, it’s unlikely that Uruguay will be in the mix. Yet, that may be about to change. A couple of weeks ago, Uruguay star Bodega Garzón came to town to present its new portfolio. (We also had a sneak preview of Garzón at Vancouver International Wine Festival.)

There are plenty of good reasons why Bodega Garzón should be on your radar. Here are 5 … or more.

Bodega Garzón vineyards: a staggering 1,000 different parcels

1. Location, location, location

Uruguay’s wine regions are situated on latitudes similar to wine regions in The Cape, Hunter Valley, Margaret  River and elsewhere. Most of Uruguay’s plantings are west of Montevideo, on the north shore of the River Plate. By contrast, Bodega Garzón is well to the east, beyond the resort of Punta del Este (East Point). Furthermore, the site is just 18 kms, inland from the Atlantic Ocean itself. Hence, the immense Garzón plantings enjoy any number of advantages. They range from mineral-rich, well drained, ancient soils to ocean breezes that dry after frequent rains. As a result, the careful planning as well as formidable expense, is paying off.

2. History

Uruguay is much more well established than most people realize. It’s the fourth largest South American producer after Chile, Argentina and Brazil. Not only that, there’s some history here. The industry traces its beginnings to over 250 years ago. But things started to look up when an emigré from Madiran (in present day southwest France) established Tannat in the 1870s.

An impressive lineup of concrete ‘egg’ fermenters.

3. Albariño, Viognier, Cab Franc … oh, and Tannat

Tannat, an aptly named variety can be as rustic and as tannic as it sounds. But in the right place—and in the right hands—it makes a smooth, well structured red. It also constitutes a substantial portion of Garzón’s plantings. However, their other varieties also proved very convincing. Also planted are: Albariño, Viognier, Pinot Gris, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir, Petit Verdot and Marselan. By contrast, you can see it’s not only about Tannat.

Much traveled winemaker, viticulturist and Bodega Garzon consultant, Alberto Antonini

4. Alberto Antonini

The entire, massive development (212 ha. / 524 acs.) is the brainchild of Bodega Garzón founder, Alejandro P. Bulgheroni. However, heading up the wine-making team is renowned ‘flying winemaker’ and viticulturist Alberto Antonini. Not surprisingly, he is excited about this formidable and complex project.

“As a producer, Uruguay is a very inspiring place,” says Antonini.

“But you have to have a lot of imagination,” he adds.

He points out that Uruguay’s main region is ‘not the best wine area.’ Deep, fertile soils don’t work well for the grapes and don’t properly ripen the tannins.”

Furthermore, he quips: “There, in the top soils, the vines are eating #BigMacs. If you want to eat better you go deeper.”

I’m keeping this short. But it’s not only about the vineyards. This month the stunning winery officially opened. An immense 19,050 sq.m., it’s fully LEED certified and all gravity fed.

Bodega Garzón has also engaged celebrated international chef Francis Mallmann as ambassador and culinary director.

5. Bodega Garzon … the wines…

In conclusion, I was struck by how much these wines convey a sense of place. Not only that but they reveal a pronounced freshness and elegance. The wines presented follow a revamp of the entire portfolio. At the moment there are few bottles in the market. By contrast, they didn’t impress me in the same way as these. Although, I will say that Hawksworth’s pairing of Albariño ’15 with Dungeness crab was spectacular.

Several of these below will be here in due course.

In addition, you might track down their second label, Colinas de Uruguay (private stores). No surprise, perhaps, it includes a pretty good example of a quaffable Tannat at a fair price.
Here are my notes, arranged by tier. Prices are approximate, hospitality (LDB retail) estimates. Wines that don’t wind up at BCLS will be somewhat higher, at LRS level (in brackets).

Bodega Garzon Estate Range

All estate sourced, overall, these wines represent excellent value.

Bodega Garzon Estate Viognier 2016
The most impressive white of the flight. Floral and stone fruit on top. Chalky notes, acid-driven with vibrant peach and tangerine on a rounded palate. Focused mineral undertones plus lingering citrus and tropical in a juicy, lingering finish. 93 pts. c $19.99 ($24.39)

Bodega Garzon Estate Pinot Gris 2016
A hint of salmon colour in the glass. All stainless steel fermented. Perfumed, floral, white flower orchard fruit aromas. A bright palate defined by keen acidity with green apple notes giving way to subtle citrus through the finish. 90 pts. c. $19.99 ($24.39)

Bodega Garzon Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2016
Grassy top precedes a juicy, textured palate defined by crisp chalky and mineral notes.  Distinctive freshness and purity of citrus fruit flavour. 90 pts. c. $19.99 ($24.39)

Bodega Garzon Estate Pinot Noir Rosé 2016

Strawberry and wild berry notes on top precede a slightly mineral tinged palate with juicy lip smacking acidity. Balanced by appealing savoury elements through a dry finish.  90 pts c. $19.99

Bodega Garzon Estate Cabernet Franc Tannat 2015

Blend of 80/20 Cab Franc Tannat sports some peppery notes up front. Medium bodied, quite juicy, plummy red and black fruit notes. The Tannat adds structure. An easy drinking unoaked red. 89 pts. $19.99 ($24.39)

Bodega Garzon Reserve Range

Hand harvested and sorted, whites are more rich and complex and reds all see various degrees of barrel aging.

Bodega Garzon Reserve Albariño 2016
Up front stone fruit and citrus precede a quite rich and rounded palate with extra heft from oak aging. Fresh acidity with mineral hints through definite oak showing in the finish. 89 pts. c $23.59 ($29.99)

Bodega Garzon Reserve Marselan 2015
Marselan is a cross of Cabernet Sauvignon and Grenache, prevalent in Languedoc. Aromas of vibrant mulberry and red berries. An intense, layered and quite viscous, mouth filling palate defined by red fruit with prevalent mineral notes. Wrapped in well managed oak, elegant tannins with a lengthy finish. Cement fermented. For me this was the most interesting of the reds. 92 pts. $23.59 ($29.99)

Bodega Garzon Reserve Cabernet Franc 2015
Bell pepper, mocha and spice notes with good mouthfeel. Well integrated tannins underpinned by layers of black fruit and smoky notes. Terroir driven minerality throughout to a juicy, spicy and lingering close. Aged in both large and small oak. Another standout. 92 pts. c $23.59 ($29.99)

Bodega Garzon Reserve Tannat 2015

Up front mulberry and some spicy hints. Juicy and quite approachable on the palate, although not particularly complex. Fermented in cement with 6-12 months on lees in large and small oak. Still youthful. 89 pts. $23.59 ($29.99)

In conclusion: these wines also add up to very good value for money.

Bodega Garzon Single Vineyard Range

Wines from select parcels that best express the varietal and truly reflect the terroir.

Bodega Garzon Single Vineyard Albariño 2016

Lifted tropical and stone-fruit before a fresh and fruit driven palate. Well balanced, restrained oak (mainly concrete fermented) with mineral hints and a lingering finish. 90 pts. c $41.49 ($52.99)

Bodega Garzon Petit Verdot 2015
Lifted, intense black berries with some smoky hints. A broad but layered and luxuriant palate of blackberry and anise. Firm but well integrated tannins, toasty notes and a lengthy end. Impressive. 91 pts. $41.49 ($52.99)
Bodega Garzon Single Vineyard Tannat 2015
Raspberry, cherry and spice notes up front. A full bodied palate of black cherry and spice, with juicy acidity, underpinned by firm tannins that last well through the dry finish. 90 pts. $41.49 ($52.99)
Bodega Garzon Single Vineyard Pinot Noir 2015
Forward cherry and red fruits before a palate of red berry and savoury earthy notes with a spicy streak and approachable tannins. 89 pts. $41.49 ($52.99)

To summarize: I was obviously impressed by the Albariño and Viognier, but also by the other whites. As for the reds, maybe I had expected the Tannat wines to show better than they did. To be fair, the Single Vineyard in particular is still pretty young. But, for me, it was eclipsed by the Marselan. Regardless, these are still early days and it will be interesting to watch these reds evolve. It’s hard to understate the impact that this project likely will have on Uruguay as an exporter.

A note about typography…

The correct written form of Bodega Garzón uses an accent, as indicated here. However, for reasons of SEO and other mysteries, I have had to exclude it in most mentions.

The post Bodega Garzon: 5 Reasons Why You’ll Drink Uruguay appeared first on hiredBelly.com.

Vintners Brunch is a bit like that favourite item on a restaurant menu. It might feel a little bit dated. Maybe it needs a freshen up now and again. However, tweak it too much and you’ll be in trouble.

What’s more, for the lucky few (well, 450 or so) who have it on speed dial, it’s the ultimate festival wrap party. When the festival releases tickets, Vintners Brunch is still the first event to sell out.

Vintners Brunch takes place in the Vancouver Convention Centre, overlooking the harbour

It all comes down to this: VB is one great party, held in an amazing venue. Furthermore, the major draw is a cornucopia of dishes paired with some good wines. Not to mention Rueben Gurr and his Stolen Moments band. They alone over the years have helped shape one of the week’s liveliest events.

However, behind the scenes a more serious scenario unfolds. A rigorous judging is underway to decide the best food and wine pairing. This is a “blind” judging, meaning nobody knows which chef’s plate is on the table. And nobody has access to the event program.

As a judge from Day One,  it’s been rewarding to watch the quality and sophistication mature. The original idea behind the judging was to raise the tenor of the event. To try to turn the pairing aspect into a little more serious undertaking. And to recognize the skills of chefs and somms who participate.

D’Oro gets gold

Every year somebody unexpected pops up in the top three. I’m not sure why that is, as there’s a truckload of experienced talent in the room. But it is refreshing. And, consequently, a great way for young chefs to get some exposure.

Gelato Rules

Even though, as always, the emphasis is on savoury plates, this year a dessert won best food and wine match.

When the last dish was cleared and the numbers tallied D’Oro Gelato grabbed top spot. D’Oro Gelato’s Giorgia Zanone and Gaspar Jovino Brites came up with a wicked BC Carrot and Citrus Sorbetto served ‘a la Piemontesina’. It was matched with Mondo Del Vino Acquesi Asti Spumante DOCG NV. The pairing was perfect.

D’Oro’s award winning dessert

Giorgia has some experience with the festival. D’Oro offers free samples of their gelato in the International Tasting Room, next to Caffe Umbria. I have been known to enjoy the occasional affogato mid tasting…

When invited to create a dessert in Vintners Brunch she jumped at the chance.

“Yes. Let’s do it!,” she said.

Participants are offered a few wines with which to work. Zanone says she chose the Asti over Port. And gelato was a natural choice.

“I’m from that region and know that wine. I thought I’d like to try it. Why not?”, she says.

I like her style. Plus: These guys are good…

“We made the dessert two times and decided the pairing worked,” she says.

Done!

A perfect match

When D’Oro Gelato’s dish arrived, even before we tasted, we were charmed. The presentation was precise and exquisitely garnished.

A thoughtful and creative match

However, this was more than just a pretty plate.
For the sorbetto Zanone used carrot and mandarin with a sponge cake base. On the side was honey and saffron ‘caviar’, milk chocolate filled with Cointreau, and candied almond. The piece de resistance was perfectly crispy carrot chips, which had been poached and dehydrated. Finally, The duo went the extra mile by making a non-dairy and gluten free dessert. That in itself was a smart move considering the number of people in the room.

The choice of ingredients was a perfect match for the floral, fruity and gently citrus elements in the wine. What’s more the lightness of the sorbetto’s texture also played nicely off the weight of the wine.

Vintners Brunch food and wine pairing winners, D’Oro Gelato’s Giorgia Zanone and Gaspar Jovino Brites

Giorgia Zanone attends Northwest Culinary Academy, from where she’ll graduate in May. She is the pastry chef at D’Oro on Denman St., where she works with Gaspar Brites. You could say he has gelato in his blood. He’s an Italian trained and certified Gelataio, who has worked in Italy, Switzerland, Portugal, and now (lucky for us) in Canada.

It’s unusual for a dessert to to come out on top. Although, the academy did win before with a dessert, in 2008.

“I never expected to win, for sure!”, she laughs.

Not only did they get all the glory. The pair won $3,000 US in Delta Airlines vouchers.

Congratulations to D’Oro Gelato!

You can find them in Vancouver  on Robson and on Denman streets—and likely at next year’s wine festival!

On line at dorogc.ca

Congrats also to…

Railtown Catering pork belly and scallop with Whitehaven Pinot Noir 2013

Second Place… Railtown Catering (Pork belly and scallop with apple parsnip purée, grilled radicchio, pickled shiitake and pepper jus. Paired with Whitehaven Marlborough Pinot Noir 2013)

Vancouver Convention Centre’s cassoulet with Chapoutier Bila Haut

Third Place…Vancouver Convention Centre (Cassoulet of duck confit, merguez sausage and slow braised pork hock with Lingot beans and black garlic glace de viande chicharons. Paired with M. Chapoutier Bila Haut L’Esquerda 2015.)

How it works

Thanks to a wicked crew of volunteers, everything runs like to clockwork. Because of that, the panel is able to judge one dish with its paired wine every six minutes.

As a result, the judging adds up to two hours of non-stop tasting and scoring. At the end is a brief discussion, before announcing the results.

It’s probably not the most leisurely brunch. But it is always tasty, interesting—and surprising!

___

In conclusion, sincere thanks to my fellow judges for being such a collegial group. Moreover, extra appreciation for not being anti-Asti snobs.

Julian Bond – Executive Chef and VP of Pacific Institute of Culinary Arts

Josh Clark – Certified Sommelier and consultant, Il Terrazzo, Victoria, and panel chair

Joanne Sasvari – Vancouver based food, drink and travel writer, Vancouver Sun, West Ender and other publications

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A few months ago I was sitting in a corner by the cozy fireplace at Vancouver’s Bacchus Lounge. I was there to meet Doug and Dawn Reimer. They were in town to preview their (inaugural) Mirabel Vineyards Pinot Noir 2015.

In many ways the couple epitomize the new wave of Okanagan wine growers. Dawn and Doug are well traveled and passionate about food and wine. Furthermore, they’re also well capitalized and extremely committed. The Reimer family hails from Winnipeg, where they founded the successful Reimer Trucking company.

The grapes for this release come from their Reimer Family Vineyards in Southeast Kelowna. Mirabel’s name reflects the wondrous setting and the spectacular view across the valley.

After careful study, in 2006 they planted the steep sloped, south and northwest facing vineyard to Pinot Noir. Since that time they have farmed the vineyard sustainably, with organic practices.  All hand harvested, the resulting low yields are 2.5 tons per acre.

Dawn and Doug Reimer and canine pals in their Mirabel Vineyard (supplied)

BC Pinot Noir lovers who recognise the Reimer name will know this vineyard.  In the past, the couple have supplied grapes to premium producers Foxtrot and Meyer.

Doug and Dawn first saw the farm status orchard property after a visit to the Okanagan in 2004. They fell in love with it and felt it would be the perfect place to pursue their dream of growing grapes.

Some of the former orchard remains, with apple and pear trees in a lower frost pocket. Doug says when it came to deciding which style of Pinot to make, between Old and New World, they wanted to be “in the middle but more inclined to Burgundy.”

The much traveled Matt Dumayne made the wine at Okanagan Crush Pad.

Here’s my review which appears in an upcoming edition of Quench magazine.

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Mirabel Vineyards Pinot Noir 2015

Inaugural, premium release from the owners of East Kelowna’s Reimer Vineyard. (Formerly bottled as vineyard designate wines by Foxtrot and Meyer.) Farmed with organic practices. Lifted cherry and savoury hints on the nose followed by a delicately balanced palate. A definite nod to Burgundy that juxtaposes focused fruit with elegant structure. Strawberry notes with a hint of spice. A distinctive mineral streak and well managed new oak (11 1/2 months) as the wine evolves in the glass. $70 93 pts

Cost is $70 (750ml) and $160 (1500ml Magnum). Available either from www.mirabelvineyards.com or on line at New District

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In the best of all possible worlds, every restaurant I walked into would adhere to Ocean Wise. I know that to realize such a dream may take a while. Ongoing over-fishing, by-catch and compromised habitat threaten seafood stocks that we continue to take so much for granted.

Vancouver Aquarium’s game changing program addresses the issue of serving only sustainable seafood species. And puts it right where it belongs: on the table and in the kitchen. The people who can really make a difference are you, me and the chefs who cook for us.

One restaurant in Richmond is going a long way to make Ocean Wise a reality.

Maji chef Markx Wu and owner Ian Tsai make Ocean Wise a priority

Last night I hopped the Canada Line to Richmond to check out Maji. The occasion was the launch of Maji’s Ocean Wise menu, one of very few in the City of Richmond.

That 20 minute trip from downtown Vancouver on the more patriotic version of SkyTrain leads to another universe. Richmond is a fascinating place. It adds up to a seismic shift, in some ways light years away from the broader mosaic of downtown. But it’s also far from being a culinary monoculture.

Years ago I used to drive there to shop at a shiny new supermarket called T&T. It turned out to be the first of many. The main draw was the expansive array of live tanks holding the cheapest fresh crab in town. There was also plenty of other seafood, likely not very Ocean Wise.  But there was also the lure of things unseen on ‘regular’ store shelves (outside of Chinatown) like fermented black beans, or frozen pot stickers or gyoza. It whet my appetite for what was still to come.

Fast forward

Today’s Richmond is home to what many well traveled folk will attest is arguably the best Chinese cuisine on the planet. An immense diversity of styles ranges from Cantonese to Szechuan, Hunan and more. Not to mention other Asian cuisines from Japanese to Vietnamese, Korean and Singaporean—and Taiwanese.

However, ask the Ocean Wise web site for Richmond recommendations and the list of Chinese options is short to non-existent. Like most of my friends, and anyone else who’s eco-aware, I’ve stopped patronizing restaurants who don’t offer any Ocean Wise certified items.

Maji looks to be a worthy trendsetter.

Maji: Taiwanese Stir Fry

This bustling, laid back room, sports a warm and welcoming atmosphere with a funky, woodsy feel. The Taiwanese cuisine style lends itself well to Ocean Wise ingredients. Dishes are relatively uncomplicated and allow the ingredients to shine through.
Here’s a sampling of Maji’s Ocean Wise offerings, as well as some more land-based tastes…

Chilled five flavour mussels on the half shell

Available for much of the year, mussels are an Ocean Wise no brainer.

Maji Ocean Wise fried oysters

I usually like my oysters on the half shell, but these crispy critters had me part way being a convert. But I was still craving a glass of crisp, dry Riesling.

Grilled mackerel with decorative lemon carving

Mackerel is also a plentiful species. Maji chef Markx Wu knows how grill it just perfectly.

Maji seafood hot pot

The seafood hotpot brings shrimp and salmon in a slightly sweetened sauce.

Maji clams with zippy basil and other vegetables

Manila clams are another Ocean Wise ingredient that a lot of people don’t always think about. They’re plentiful in our waters and popular in all kinds of cuisines.

Perfectly moist pan fried pink salmon

Pan fried pink salmon is a smart Ocean Wise dish, delicately flavoured with the flesh delivered still truly moist.

Maji grilled scallops

Grilled swimming scallops, lavishly anointed with garlic butter, are another delicious, sustainable option.

Maji grilled salmon with house sweet sauce

Leaning more towards sweeter palates Maji’s grilled salmon is bathed in a special sauce with onion and sesame seed garnish.

Alt Seafood: the meat of the matter

Not only about seafood, the menu also offers a range of classic dishes, many with the central stir fried theme, and all well spiced, though not excessively so.

Brightly spiced, pan fried black pepper beef.

One of the hits from the land based side of the menu was this assertively spiced pepper beef.

Maji dongpo pork

Here’s a dish to please the strictly carnivorous, a variation on pork belly you likely haven’t tried: dongpo pork is a tasty, well textured rendition, very tender, easy to slice—and delicious..

Wickedly spiced deep fried chicken

Yet another treat for the seafood resistant, Maji’s deep fried chicken is mildly addictive and decently garlicky.

When I asked Maji owner Ian Tsai how well he thought the Ocean Wise menu would be received he said his customers were only too keen to learn about it. And discover how they could eat more sustainable seafood.

Maji Taiwanese Stir Fry

On Alexandra Road, across from the Four Points Sheraton, about 8 minutes walk from Lansdowne SkyTrain station.

Open daily from 5.30 p.m.

#1180 – 8391 Alexandra Rd
Richmond, BC,  V6X 3W5

T  /  604 – 270 – 3100
contact@majirestaurant.ca
majirestaurant.ca

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Much of Parksville’s appeal lies in its breathtaking waterfront

En route from The Beach Club Resort to Tigh Na Mara, the woman piloting the luxurious SUV shuttle tells me that when The Beach Club came to town a few folks weren’t too happy. The new kid on the block (part successful Bellstar Resorts) was regarded as an interloper. (It was developed on prime waterfront, previously home to the Island Hall, which opened in 1917.)

View with a room: the water views are endless at the Beach Club Resort

Some shunned the newcomer. But at Tigh Na Mara (Gaelic for ‘house by the sea’) the manager decided they would should work with the Beach Club. And together they came up with the idea for a wine and food festival—Parksville Uncorked.

A broad appeal

While wine commands plenty of interest, craft brewing soon made its presence felt. And Parksville Untapped was added to the mix. Cue the craft distilleries, the cideries, and more.

Parksville Untapped happens the night before the main Parksville Uncorked event, the wine-focused Swirl. A pair of winemakers dinners top off what’s now a significant three day festival. The resorts take turns in hosting Swirl while the other hosts Untapped.

But don’t think for even a moment that Untapped is a lesser event. Yes, it’s pretty informal and laid back, maybe with a tad less bling that gets trotted out for Swirl. But Untapped sports just the same energy as its wine counterpart.

It also offers a wealth of contrasts in the room, with a slew of spirits plus good bites from local eateries and caterers. Plus, most Untapped packages include both events and a winemakers dinner.

Cleverly packaged, ‘handy’ fish ‘n chips plus slaw from Yorky’s

The three nights are all part of a blossoming Vancouver Island food and wine culture. In fact, if you’re interested, start thinking about next year as it sells out fast. Look for dates soon here.

Parksville Untapped tastes

Here’s a few wide ranging tastes from Untapped that underscore the creativity and quality driving the Island scene.

Driftwood Brewing – Naughty Hildegard ESB

I’ve been known to consume the odd glass of Driftwood Fat Tug. In fact it’s the go-to brew for soothing post wine-judging, tannin battered palates. But I could easily be lured back to this unabashed nod to the remarkable woman, widely thought to have been the first to use hops in beer. Back in the day, beer was brewed with just about anything people could get their hands on. And drunk liberally because it really was safer than the water. Hildegard von Bingen (1098-1179) was a Benedictine nun, and the Abbess of Diessenberg. She used hops as both a cleansing and flavouring agent and also as a preservative. This is a smooth variation on the typical ESB, with a healthy hop and smooth malty component and a hint of citrus. Plus, I love the label, with its stained glass window suggestion and Hildegard holding her hops. Not to mention broadcasting the notion that the first hopped beer was made by a smart woman… Cheers to you, again, Driftwood.

Sheringham Distillery – Seaside Gin

This distillery is located just about as far west as you can go in Canada, past Sooke, near scenic French Beach. Here’s one of the cleanest and most well crafted gins on the coast. I’m also thinking it’s (so far, at least) the only one that lists kelp as an ingredient. Made from organic white wheat and malted barley, it’s one of the best sipping gins around. Look for floral and citrus notes, plus a slightly salty background. Also of note, their Aquavit.

Red Arrow Brewing – Sweet Leaf IPA

From another newish brewery that I wasn’t aware of before. In your face, take no hostages hop and floral notes, before a nice balance of assertive hop with smooth malty undertones. And yes, another great label.

White Sails – Mount Benson India Pale Ale

Founder Brad McCarthy came to beer from wine. He owns and operates Oceanside WineWorks in Parksville. McCarthy felt Nanaimo could sustain another craft brewer and jumped at the chance when the opportunity arose to purchase an existing pub and license to launch an expansive tasting room. This is a well balanced IPA, quite weighty, with assertive hop and a citrus streak.

Moon Under Water – Creepy Uncle Dunkel

The name alone is hard to resist, from one of Victoria’s coolest brewpubs.
As an aside, I’m always intrigued at the number of people who go to a beer tasting and say “What do you have that’s light and doesn’t taste too beery.”  And they’re not even Bud Lite weenies—well, hopefully not.
They should try this riff on a German dark lager. Pretty smooth and not too hoppy. That should make it pretty appealing to lesser hopheads, although it still has plenty of character.

Sea Cider – Kings and Spies

I haven’t tasted Sea Cider for a while but they always impress. It was good to catch up at Untapped. Their farm and cidery on the Saanich Peninsular is absolutely beautiful. (If you haven’t been, there’s more info here.) The lineup is impressive, even more so since they started working with local restos. Because I was weaned on (Somerset) cider, I have an affinity for the drier styles. My pick here was Kings and Spies, crisp and clean but not tart, and really food friendly.

deVine Wine & Spirits – Vin Gin

Here’s an interesting idea from the distiller who started Victoria Gin. They use a base made from grapes from their Saanich vineyard (Pinot Gris and Grüner Veltliner). The gin stood out from this lineup, which included cocktails made by brand ambassador Bradley Scissons. The end product is a very smooth sipper with some definite grapey hints.

Wolf Brewing – Porter

I liked this smooth, and chocolaty toned style with a distinctive dry personality and generous close. I also liked the distinctive label and was thrilled to discover Wolf’s program to actively support the artists whose work adorns their bottles.

Hoyne Brewing- Frank Appleton Extra Special Bitter

A fitting salute to the grandfather of BC brewing, Frank Appleton, who established the Troller in Horseshoe Bay. It was the province’s first brew pub and sadly short lived. But Appleton went on to mentor scores of folks, many of whom, including Sean Hoyne, are today’s leading brewers. This is a lovely copper toned beer with just the right balance of firm hops and generous malt with a smooth finish.

LoveShack Libations – DPA Dark Ale.

At Dashwood, on Old Island Highway just North of Qualicum Beach, Dave Paul has fired up LoveShack Libations, named for the small cabin he and his partner lived in while they were building their house. In just under a year they’ve taken his idea to make small batch, bottle condition brews from a dream to reality. Among a few good tastes, his DPA Dark Pale Ale (aka Dave Paul Ale) is a smooth, darker variation on an IPA with decent body and well balanced hop.

More on Swirl, the wine event, shortly …

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I’ve recently returned from Italy, courtesy of the Consorzio Tutela Vini Valpolicella. No surprise, I’m sorting through a wealth of information on Amarone and a whole lot more. It was a trip of many discoveries and new friends in Valpolicella and beyond. Much more to come …

What I wasn’t ready for was Venice, where I managed to squeeze in a few hours before flying home.

I hadn’t been there before. And even though I’m an incurable romantic, it surprised and seduced me —though not in ways that you might expect.

First of all, when I walked out of the station I was bowled over by the view. I definitely knew where I was!

Right across from the station …San Simeone

I had my suitcase with me on the first day. I quickly learned to look for the bridges with staggered steps to one side.  Now I’m inducted into the Venice luggage wheelers club. Indeed, I had plenty of company. It would appear that just about everyone’s a member.

Boats, boats and more boats

It hadn’t occurred to me before, but all goods that make their way into the city proper must do so by boat and then by handcart. From the train across the causeway to Santa Lucia,  I noticed an endless chain of cargo boats. They were headed across the water in a designated channel. But it wasn’t until I was walking through the maze of streets that it struck me. At almost every turn there were people wheeling and lifting packages of every kind.

Access only by water …

What was also interesting was how quickly I became used to the notion of no cars. I suddenly realised that the soundscape in Venice, in essence likely hasn’t changed at all in a few hundred years

This image below I find particularly interesting because it reminded me so much of Canaletto. I was intrigued to see if my memories were correct. Just for fun, I’ve added the famous artist’s painting from almost the same perspective, c. 1725. It’s actually remarkable how little has changed in almost 300 years. The only real variation is the quay on the left, now a Vaporetto terminus.

Grand Canal from Rialto Bridge, with Vaporetti on left and Gondolas to the right

How Canaletto saw it … some 300 years earlier.

Of course there was no shortage of other kinds of boats, from the vaporetti to gondolas. The latter seemed to be de rigueur for the many Chinese visitors there for Lunar New Year.

Life & Death

I heard the siren before I saw the water ambulance.

And then, by chance, turned around to spot a hearse and flower adorned coffin. Those who know me as a bit of a transit geek will be shocked to hear that I didn’t ride the Vaporetto. Even though I was tempted, I walked instead.

Venice: Decay by Design?

I managed to see a large part of Venice, warts and all. I’m still not sure just how much of the crumbling stucco was by design or natural decline.

I eventually found San Marco, having wandered all around the the Grand Canal and down not a few narrow calles—Sometimes not so gently perfumed with that unmistakable hint of sewage.

It’s true, there’s plenty of ‘deliberate’ decay. But I also saw lots of construction and restoration. Most buildings are are still supported by wooden piles. They have a surprisingly long life span, actually improved by being under water.

Occasionally those narrow alleys end in surprises, like this archway over steps right into the canal. Beware of taking the wrong turn when leaving the local trattoria …

My highlight of San Marco: the cloisters at the Doge’s palace…

On the way I stumbled across the Church of San Giacomo di Rialto, which dates from 1152 and is now home to a delightful musical instrument museum. With period music played over the sound system, it makes for a delightful break from the  outside bustle.

It was damp and bone chilling. But I did miss the snow by a couple of days (fine by me); and found a good local bar close to Piazzale Roma (the bus depot).

What also struck me was the absolute rule of street life without cars or trucks. It all felt so natural, after just a few minutes. This street market seemed so ideally situated…

And, yes, there was radicchio …

You can wander the streets for days and always find something novel—like this al fresco store display…

For accommodation, I had only one night in the area. That was the last before flying home, which required an early start.

I opted to stay at an Agriturismo hotel outside of Venice, just minutes from the airport. I’d become familiar with them on my previous trip to the Veneto.

Ca’ Tessera, a short hop from Venice airport

The Ca Tessera (which I reached by bus for 1.50€ and a short walk) turned out to be perfect. It’s a welcoming spot with excellent facilities and staff who can’t do enough to help. The rooms sport a rustic character, with exposed beams and hardwood floors. The beds are comfortable, linens spotless and bathrooms modern and well equipped.

And (once upstairs) you don’t have to wheel your luggage too far.

I had a glass of wine by the fire before a leisurely meal. The local menu includes bacalla on toasts and decent steak.

At 6 in the morning, I paid my bill (63€ for the room) and the night clerk made me an espresso. Then drove me and another guest to the airport (8€.)

Anyway, much more to come on Italy wine-wise. But Venice didn’t just steal my heart. It absolutely ambushed me.

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