Mister Does it Right: Annals of Ice Cream

A visit to Yaletown’s newly minted Mister reminded me: I don’t often get to frequent ice cream parlours and similar dens of blissful decadence.
However, I do know good ice cream when I taste it. That’s partly because a summer holiday highlight when growing up was to indulge in a ’99’.Cornish 99
These ice cream cornet marvels of my youth were an absolute treat. It wasn’t merely the amazing richness and creaminess of the incredible, saffron yellow, Cornish ice cream.
Nor was it the entire Cadbury’s Milk Flake chocolate log inserted fully into the middle. And it wasn’t the chocolate sprinkles with which the entire creation was so liberally garnished.
The real treat, of course, was the utter decadence and combination of all three.
The Cornish 99 spoiled me for ice cream for life – which is not a bad thing. In a way, I like to think it helped cultivate a discriminatory palate in matters of frozen cream and much more.*

Mister lands in Yaletown

It's not just for show, either

Mister in action: it’s not just for show, either

Fast forward to Yaletown’s newest addition, the spotless and sparsely appointed Mister, which specializes in the purest of ice cream flavours fast frozen with liquid nitrogen.
Some days it seems Vancouver has more ice cream parlours and gelaterias than even sushi bars. Over the years flavours have run the gamut, from predictable to puerile (‘Viagra’).

However, Mister says they have no plans to offer anything but the cleanest of flavours. And any fancy combos are unlikely.

Watching Mister prepare these flavours from scratch adds up to quite a show: As the liquid nitrogen comes into contact, the cream freezes rapidly. And as the mixers whirl and churn they create quite the fog. Everything is ready within just 60 seconds.

Mister nitro tanks

Nitrogen at the ready …

The quick freeze requires less air than traditional methods and makes a much denser ice cream. Fast freezing causes much smaller ice crystals and less air than traditional methods, creating a much creamier, denser and smoother ice cream. Mister doesn’t use any stabilisers. That allows the purity of the flavours to shine. And you don’t get that ‘gummy’ aftertaste found in some ice creams.

At a pre-opening tasting I discovered some of the most extraordinary ice cream I’ve ever tasted. Mister faves? The Crème Brûlée, made with real vanilla bean, frozen custard and finished with a hand torched crackled caramel top, is a show stopper that tastes as amazing as it looks. Not for the faint of heart!
I’d head back for the extraordinary, creamy Avocado, which yields a wonderful sweet and savoury contrast.

Mister avocado ice cream

Mister avocado: made from scratch

But then again I’d also have another go at the Dark Chocolate (love the cocoa!), and I wouldn’t hesitate to try again the Lemon Frozen Yogurt, which is bursting with fresh lemon.

Mister chocolate ice cream

Mister Chocolate: the cocoa makes it even better

Mister’s Flavours will rotate depending on availability of ingredients, most sourced from local farmers. Prices start at $6 and there are take home pints from $10 (including $1 deposit, with a recycling program for pint jars in-store).

The room (by Scott and Scott Architects) is bare bones cool, with acres of white brick and tile, concrete slab flooring, galvanized steel and a large soapstone counter with leather stools.

Mister is located at 1141 Mainland Street and is open 7 days/week from 12pm-10pm. And judging by the people knocking on the door even before they were open, my guess is that it will quickly be very busy.

  • If you want to find out more about the 99—and delve into the hot controversy surrounding its origins—the BBC has it all.

Mister ice cream flag

By | 2018-01-21T15:05:04+00:00 June 21st, 2016|Dining|1 Comment

About the Author:

Tim has been covering the food and wine revolution for about 20 kilos. Count 15 kg alone thanks to the blossoming cuisine and wine culture of British Columbia, Canada. Tim’s hallmark is seeking out and recommending value wines from BC and around the world that offer quality at every level. He also scopes out noteworthy restaurants that live up to their promises—and often over deliver. Readers depend on the Hired Belly for his “Belly’s Best” and “Belly’s Budget Best” picks to help them find the right wine for the occasion. He writes, tweets and shoots his own images for columns in the Vancouver Courier and North Shore News. He also contributes to WHERE Vancouver magazine, as well as to several other publications. They include Taste magazine, Tidings Magazine, and Montecristo. His columns are frequently picked up by major newspapers across Canada. Tim is a frequent judge for wine competitions, such as Vancouver Magazine International Wine Awards. He is a founding judge of The BC Lieutenant Governor’s Awards for Excellence in Wine. He is frequently invited to judge at The BC Wine Awards, and others. Tim has traveled to taste in many of the world’s leading wine regions, most recently in Burgundy, Argentina and Chile.

One Comment

  1. Cynthia Sharp June 29, 2016 at 6:51 pm

    Looks delicious!

Leave A Comment

© 2010-2018 Hired Belly All Rights Reserved -- Copyright notice by Blog Copyright