Tan while you wait for your table, Tim Pawsey photo

The first time I came to Vancouver was for my sister’s wedding. Like so many, I was immediately smitten by the city and its spectacular setting. Friends had lent us their 40′s era apartment, which overlooked Kits Beach, and I slept in the living room. When I woke up and looked out the window on that dazzlingly clear August morning, I made a promise to myself to come back as soon as possible, for good. And I did.

Some of the festivities took place around Denman and Davie, in the West End. I recall sitting in the lounge at the heritage, ivy-clad Sylvia Hotel, where you could enjoy a drink overlooking English Bay. Except we didn’t know we were overlooking English Bay because the view in those days was concealed by mottled amber glass windows, by law: it was illegal to be able to be seen from the street drinking. Ludicrous indeed.

Happily, times have changed, at least in that regard.

The other night we wandered down to check out the new Cactus Club at English Bay.

Waiter, there's a sunset in my glass. Oh, and on my tee-shirt...

It’s already hopping. And, guess what? You can sip the beverage of your choice and drink in the view, and be seen doing it … no problems.

We went with my in-laws, which was good, as it allowed me to gauge a wider experience, in that both have some dietary restrictions. Also, I find that visiting a restaurant with people from out of town helps deliver a broader perspective and is useful in my work with WHERE Vancouver.

I’m going to say right off the top that we all were impressed, for any number of reasons. However, consistency of execution—including the quality of ingredients on the plate—and good service all around were what made our evening. All of our party have travelled extensively, often internationally. Dollar for dollar, in a setting such as this, Cactus Club’s English Bay ‘experience’ rates with or above that found in most other major cities.

The waiting experience. This is a hotspot. No denying that. If you really have your heart set on a window seat best get there early, although it doesn’t matter where you sit, as the view ‘s good from just about anywhere on the main level—and not too shabby from downstairs. There are no reservations. They don’t need to take them.

Our wait on a late Friday afternoon would have been about 15 minutes, although it was longer as we opted for upstairs which is considerably quieter than the lower level bar and main patio access. As for the window seats, this place faces just about due west. Even on a less than balmy day it was pretty warm in the sun, although staff are quick to lower the electric blinds, and open the sash window tops.

Cool PR in your hand ...

These guys don’t miss a trick. When you give them your name and number of people they hand you an iphone sized pager, complete with a blurb that thanks the community for being patient while the LEED certified structure was built.

Waiting for a table gives me a chance to watch not only how people are greeted and get a sense of the flow of the room but also to get a handle on the clientele.

It’s always amusing / disappointing / unsurprising to see how some folks feel absolutely entitled that they, of all people, should not have to wait; and be able to waltz into a place at one of the busiest times of the week, to be immediately seated at the best table. Kudos to the impeccably dressed, young women hosts as to how they politely dispatched handled them.

Here’s the review as it appeared last week in the Vancouver Courier …

Now that the Cactus Club at English Bay is finally open, we thought it time for a test drive, which we did anonymously on a busy evening last week.

On arrival (no reservations), you’ll be given a pager that vibrates when your table’s ready, which means you can hang around on the beach while you wait. Why not?

The usual Cactus Club menu and wine list have been tweaked to reflect a local feel, with more specific seafood offerings and tailor-made specials-making it an ideal spot to take out of town guests, which we did. The two-tier space is compact-the kitchen even more so-and everything from bellinis to burgers has to make the trip upstairs courtesy of one narrow staircase. Anyone working here can happily consign their stair-master to the dump.

Tuna tataki, mildly addictive, TP photo

Our servers were cheerfully engaging, polished and competent. After a round of cocktails, as our starters arrived, we reminded ourselves what a stroke of genius it was for the Cactus Club franchise to have hired Rob Feenie as its “food concept architect.” The former Lumiere owner has elevated the fare well above the standard we used to expect from casual fine dining.

A precise prawn ravioli trio, TP photo

Our Ocean Wise tuna tataki was superb: perfectly seared outside and rare within, on a bed of bean shoots, with avocado and papaya chunks in a yuzu vinaigrette. It’s a generously sized small plate that could be shared, and great value at $14. Another standout, a trio of butternut squash and prawn ravioli arrived with the prawns precisely cooked and the plate well detailed ($14).

We like the fact that people, especially visitors, can come to a place so quintessentially a part of Vancouver as English Bay and enjoy well contrived and responsibly sourced cuisine that’s truly representative of what the region has to offer. (If only B.C. Ferries could attempt to do something similar.)

Healthy and tasty, wild salmon rice bowl, TP photo

We won’t detail the entire six or seven items we tried but, suffice to say, from the customized chicken burger to pesto chicken quesadilla, they were all impeccably executed. Sebastien Le Goff’s wine list is short but smart. A bottle of dry white Muscadet Sevre et Maine Sur Lie ($32) was a great match. (Available at B.C. Liquor Stores for $14.99.)

It pays to get there early: The place is already hopping and, with the final arrival of spring warmth, the patio lineup starts early.

If you want a quieter setting, it’s worth waiting a little longer for upstairs, while the bar area and main patio access downstairs is more energized. As far as asking for a window table, why bother? The space is so compact there’s barely a viewless seat in the house. Plus, a word of caution, on sunny days this southwest facing spot warms up fast, although staff are quick to adjust the blinds.

If customers vote with their feet, you can assume that this much-discussed newcomer is a more than welcome addition to what’s already on offer.

 LATE BREAKING …

Well, the joy of the web is that it’s real time—which means that your friends can remind you about things you’ve forgotten, and that you can add them sooner rather than later.

Feenie Goes Haywire. Again.

We touched on Sebastien Le Goff’s wine program. But we should also mention that ever since Haywire / Okanagan Crush Pad owner Christine Coletta met Cactus Club’s Rob Feenie on a boat, crossing Skaha Lake, a couple of decades ago they’ve enjoyed a firm friendship. (I was there too, so was Trevor Boddy, but we’re not going to write any more about that day. Well, not now anyway…)

A product of that friendship is a couple of new wines named, appropriately, Feenie Goes Haywire. They’ll be on the list at Cactus Club very shortly. Having recently tasted them we can assure you they’ll be a big hit.

Feenie Goes Haywire White 2011 (80/20 Gewurz. / Chard) sports a nice, floral top with a juicy, refreshing palate, well textured with a touch of spice.

Feenie Goes Haywire Red 2008 (Meritage with a touch of Pinot) is an approachable, well balanced red with some lively cherry and smoky notes, with a touch of savoury.

Peller / Sandhill master winemaker Howard Soon, Tim Pawsey photo

Because he always is!  I like this pic of Peller / Sandhill / Calona winemaker guru Howard Soon. It was just a quick snap, taken at a recent BC Wine tasting. But it shows you exactly the way Howard is: always there with something interesting to say and usually with a positive spin.

It was Howard who came to Vancouver to give the very first winemaker’s dinner I ever went to. In those days the idea of a winemaker (especially one from the Okanagan) coming to Vancouver was quite something.

We grabbed him a glass for this shot which had something pink in it, even though he was pouring two contrasting 2011 Pinot Gris at this tasting.

Howard was part of a panel discussing wines they made in one of the toughest vintages on record. Howard, as usual, didn’t mince his words:

“We were scared to death last spring.”

Never mind.

When the going gets tough, the tough make better wines.

Covert Farms, with McIntyre Bluff in the background, Tim Pawsey photo

One of our picks from this line up (that really showed some surprisingly good drops) was the wine Howard made for Sandhill from a new site at Covert Farms, that we saw just planted three years ago.

• Sandhill Hidden Terrace Pinot Gris 2011. First release from Sandhill’s impressive project with Covert Farms, tucked away above and just north of Oliver. A leaner, more mineral and zesty toned style, wrapped in keen acidity that makes it very food friendly. Think oysters or spot prawns. BCLS $18.99

Here’s a few more worth watching for …

• Baillie Grohman 2011 Pinot Gris. Definitely a step up from last year, with some pear notes on top followed by a zesty citrus palate wrapped in good acidity. A promise of more good things to come from this new region. BCLS $21.99

• Tinhorn Creek Two Bench White 2011. This blend of mainly Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, with Viognier, and a dab of Semillon and Muscat just gets better every year. Look for tropical, lychee, floral and  and a sage hint on the nose followed by a lively palate of juicy citrus and tropical flavours. A little more off-dry than in vintages past, says Sandra Oldfield. BCLS $22.99

• CedarCreek 2011 Riesling. No surprise that Winemaker Darryl Brooker brings some Niagara knowhow to Riesling. This one’s wicked, packed with lemon lime and lingering citrus throughout the mid-palate with vibrant, juicy acidity. The deal at BCLs $17.90

• Mission Hill Five Vineyards Pinot Grigio 2011. Good fruit and acid balance with stonefruit on the mid palate, some spicy hints and a lush end. BCLS $15.99

Today marks “Bloom” — the official release tasting of VQA BC 2011 whites to the trade and public.

Taste superb food and wines, have some fun & support a worthy cause!

As regular visitors may know, we’re involved with the BC Hospitality Foundation. This charity provides last chance financial assistance for people in the hospitality and associated industries who are coping with hardship arising from a serious health-related condition. If this sounds a bit clinical, you should check the website to see what we do and how we have helped out. Some of the stories are truly moving …  The foundation also awards 10 scholarships a year to students pursuing careers in the culinary industry. 

As the crow flies, Lillooet is about 300 kms from the South Okanagan but the climate and mountain influence are similar, image supplied

Last week in Holland they were celebrating Koninginnedag or Queens Day—a national holiday in honour of the Queen, when everyone wears orange to the max. Rolf de Bruin and Heleen Pannekoek (who came to BC from the Netherlands) were also celebrating (and wearing orange), for a different reason. They were pouring the first releases of their Fort Berens, Lillooet, estate grown wines (complete with orange capsules) at a small luncheon at Gastown’s Cork & Fin.

Suitably orange clad, Rolf de Bruin, Heleen Pannekoek and Harry McWatters raise a glass

There’s something quite ironic but also quintessentially Canadian about the couple’s story. A few folks have been looking at the viability of vineyard sites surrounding areas such as Lillooet and the Thompson and Fraser rivers for some years now. But it’s intriguing, to me at least, that it took somebody from outside of Canada to come here and put it all together. That said, the fluently English-speaking couple (who hail from backgrounds in corporate finance) have tapped into some pretty solid Canadian advice.

The Hired Belly has driven no shortage of backroads over the years and has lost count of the times we’ve taken the Duffy Lake road from Pemberton to Lillooet and Lytton as an alternative to the Fraser Canyon or well travelled Coquihalla. But rarely did I contemplate the likelihood of seeing vineyards along the way.

Here’s the text of today’s North Shore News column…

BC’s newest wine region is gradually taking shape. And it’s likely not where you expected.

Seven years have passed since immigrants Rolf de Bruin and Heleen Pannekoek left behind stable careers in finance in the Netherlands to embark on an entirely new chapter of their lives: establishing and running a winery—not in the booming Okanagan Valley but in the very much uncharted reaches of the Thompson River, on an east bench just beyond the bridge where the road goes on to Lytton.

Some of the decision to locate Fort Berens Estate Winery in unproven Lillooet was driven by pragmatism and a realisation that the Okanagan’s overheated land prices (over $100,000 per unplanted acre) were not conducive to a successful business plan.

However, the couple’s well connected partners had put them in touch with a few of the right people—including vineyard guru Richard Cleave, ex CedarCreek winemaker Tom DiBello, and Sumac Ridge founder, pioneering Harry McWatters, as well as interested parties from government and the agricultural sector.

Trial plantings have taken place on a small scale at Lillooet over decades; and McWatters has always been plugged in to the possibility of establishing vineyard sites beyond the Okanagan (not only at Lillooet but at quite a few other spots, about which he’s still coy to reveal too much information). He will remind you, though, that some of BC’s first Chardonnay (which went into the earliest Sumac wines) was grown on a bench in the Kamloops area.

The vineyard, clearly visible here, is across the bridge from downtown at the Junction of Hwy 99 and Hwy 12 to Lillooet

Rolf de Bruin points out that their site touches the northern tip of the Sonoran Desert, that stretches south to the Mexican border.

Lillooet, of course, is known as the name that always pops up beside Lytton’s as Canada’s summer hot spot with daytime highs sometimes pushing 40 C. But de Bruin says cooling breezes off Seton Lake keeps the mercury at 35 tops and yields significantly cooler nights to produce good acidity in their 20 acres (of Riesling, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Cab Franc and Merlot, planted 2009). Combine those conditions with a long growing season, low rainfall (little or no precipitation between July and October) and you can see how it’s easy to draw comparisons with the Okanagan.

Any new winery (especially once they’ve talked to their banker) will tell you of the challenges in finding cash flow while the young vines reach maturity. Fort Berens’ team has already shown its ability in producing well-made wines using Okanagan fruit (including a luscious, pineapple and tropical toned Pinot Gris 2011 $17.99 (part estate fruit), which was a finalist in the just announced Okanagan Best of Varietal Awards).

The winery is transitioning to all estate fruit by 2013 but already the results are reassuring. Just released is a green apple and lychee toned, all estate grown Riesling 2011; and all estate, appealingly dry, crisp and clean strawberry-apple Pinot Noir Rosé 2011 with a nice streak of acidity. $13.99 VQAS.

Harder to track down is 23 Camels 2011, a well balanced half Pinot Gris plus Chardonnay Riesling blend (40 percent estate) with lively stone fruit and juicy acidity. c. $15, from the winery.

Planning a trip via Duffy Lake to Lillooet and beyond? Be sure to check out this new winery that looks to become the anchor in BC’s newest wine region. Check www.Fortberens.ca for more info. And join their Discovery Club for easy access to all the wines.

Even though Dr. Loosen sparkling Riesling was the reception wine it turned out be a good match for Sichuan cucumbers and soy, ginger and garlic marinated eggplant, TP Photo

We’re still stoked about last week’s German wine pairing dim sum, presented by the German Wine Institute with Master of Wine Jeannie Cho Lee, at Vancouver’s Bao Bei, Tanis Ling’s groundbreaking Chinese room.

As we’re tight for time, here’s our North Shore News story (below) to bring you up to speed. In summary, though, we think this is quite the most brilliant partnership and are still wondering how come it didn’t happen sooner!

Not to worry. The top of mind message is that Riesling in particular continues to rule as a phenomenal food wine in all its forms, proving yet again to be a highly versatile partner to any number of cuisines.

Perfect Pairings, a pretty concise guide

The Perfect Pairings booklet is an invaluable resource for anyone interested in matching wines with Asian plates. In fact, it’s an incredibly concise and well crafted piece of work that packs a heck of a lot into a small package. Regardless of whether you’re an interested diner, restaurateur or sommelier, you’ll want to check it out. – And find out more about Jeannie Cho Lee

A quick reminder: if you’re in Vancouver you should try to get over to BC Liquor Stores at 39th & Cambie, May 5th, where, between 3 and 6 pm you can sample some of the tastes we tried, matched with the wines, and grab yourself a copy of the free booklet.

We have way too much more material that we’d like to add here (and maybe we’ll do that later) but in the meantime, here’s what went down …

Bao Bei owner Tanis Ling (l) with Jeanni Cho Lee MW, TP photo

“This past week, Jeannie Cho Lee blew through town as part of a whirlwind tour to promote Perfect Pairings, a snappy new booklet she’s penned on behalf of Wines of Germany. The first Asian Master of Wine (MW) hosted an excellent event at Chinatown’s hip Bao Bei, which turned out to be an ideal spot to explore German wines with Asian cuisine.

First off, you couldn’t ask for a better spokesperson. Smart, erudite and widely  travelled, Ms. Cho Lee took us through a number of courses, each served with a pair of wines, in order to discern which might (or might not) pair with specific ingredients. And that’s precisely the point, she explains… Even the notion of a “perfect pairing” may not be realistic, especially when it comes to Cantonese and Shanghainese cuisines. 

In fact, the current practice in Western cultures of applying the “ideal” match for a specific dish–doesn’t necessarily work with Chinese dining—if ever. 

The main challenge of matching wines with Asian plates, she says, comes courtesy of the “roving chopstick”, which means (because we’re tasting any number of different ingredients, or small tastes such as pot stickers) that any bite we take most likely doesn’t repeat the one we took before it.

There’s not space here to do full justice to her full thesis, that spans contrasting Chinese  regional styles, as well as Korean, Japanese, Thai Singaporean and Indian flavours. But here are a few pointers that can help you when pairing wines not only with Asian cuisine but food in general:

• The more versatile the choice, the better. When the wine can go with 60 or 70 percent of the meal, it’s quite likely the perfect pairing. “And you can’t go wrong with Sekt,” she suggests. (Case in point: Dr. Loosen Sparkling Riesling, BCLS $18.99, that bridges easily between mild and spicy flavours.)
• In food pairing, as always, acidity is key. It cuts through spices as well as fat, and brings a textural element. And not only in white wines. Look to higher acid reds, such as German Pinot Noir, to be an easier match than many typical styles of New World reds.
• 

  Crispy pork belly under pickled red onion matched well with Schloss Reinhartshausen '06 Pnot Noir, tp photo

  Where possible, seek out aged wines which have had a chance to “mellow”, where the sharpness of the flavours has softened. (Too bad it’s so hard to buy aged wines in this market, she notes…) Schloss Reinharthausen Pinot Noir 2006, BCLS $23.99, is a great match with Bao Bei’s chili and garlic piqued crispy pork belly—and with black bean, curried lotus root.

• Be cautious of overpowering flavours, or adding too much sweetness, when matching aromatics (such as Gewurz) to spicy plates. 

Kruger Rumpf Pinot Blanc works with cold tofu (who knew?) but Fritz Haag Mosel Auslese Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr '08 was the match for the dish's spicier ingredients

Our Bao Bei foray yielded no shortage of good tastes and worthy matches (Kruger Rumpf Pinot Blanc with cold tofu – who knew?), as well as a couple of brilliant reminders as to how some late harvest Rieslings can absolutely sing with spices such as Sichuan peppercorn: Fritz Haag Riesling Auslese (Braunberger Juffer Sonnenuhr) $37.99

BC Liquor Stores features German wines, focusing on their suitability for Asian cuisines, throughout May. But here’s the real deal: a free consumer tasting of the eight featured German drops paired with many of the Bao Bei tastes we sampled, at Cambie and 39^th Signature BC Liquor Store, May 5th, 3 to 6 pm. Includes Jeannie Cho Lee’s free Perfect Pairings booklet—which just happens to be a remarkably concise and thorough guide—will also be available throughout the promo at all 60 participating stores. 

Obviously, we highly recommend it.”

Mmmm! Smoked chicken liver and foie gras parfait. Just mildly addictive. TP photo

It was quite the soirée last week, when owner John Blakeley pulled the wraps off Le Parisien, in Vancouver’s West End. (You can read the review in our current Courier column, below.)

However, aside from the fact that this is indeed a welcome restoration, I was moved (as I suspect were some others) by John’s speech, in which he payed tribute to the original Café de Paris founder Maurice Richez—who gave him his first gig in Vancouver—with a couple of great stories about Maurice’s (liquid) advice (or lack thereof!) on how to open a restaurant.

Here’s just a little bit of what John had to say, that didn’t make it into the Courier…

“Either he (Maurice) liked you or he didn’t. He happened to like me and we bonded since day one.” (1983)

“He was an amazing mentor to me.”

Refurbished top to bottom, Tim Pawsey photo

“It’s a very sentimental feeling. It’s beyond belief how I can describe how it feels to be here, with you guys and the team that we have… Cafe de Paris changed hands quite a few times in the last ten years, so that’s why we decided to redo everything.”

(Except for the kitchen which, as Jurgen Gothe quipped is still “the size of a Buick glove compartment.”)

“We wanted to bring some energy to the room, and to the menu; the name had to be changed… for various  reasons. But it was damaged for a good ten years. So we wanted to do something fresh.”

John Blakeley shows carving prowess, TP Photo

“The menu has been designed for the neighbourhood, we created  items such as three different kinds of steak tartare, and three different mussel dishes. And carved dishes … chicken and cote de boeuf. All very affordable. It’s not just a special occasion place …”

“And breakfast… I got that idea when I was in Reims… I decided to have tea at 9 in the morning and I’m standing at the bar and everyone’s shaking my hand. I don’t know these people but everyone’s saying hello.”

That’s the feeling there is in a bistro in France. You don’t know each other but you talk about things, maybe over an espresso and a croissant…”

That’s the idea behind Le Parisien. Make it a neighbourhood place.”

(751 Denman St, nr. Robson, 604-687-1418, light breakfast, lunch, dinner, weekend brunch. Closed Monday. TV free.)

Here’s our Vancouver Courier review …

Even back in the bad old days, when just about all all you find to eat in Vancouver was either steak or planked salmon, there was at least one, truly French Bistro in town: Café de Paris. The legendary, de rigueur wood and brass trimmed West End room has operated under several owners over the last 35 years, some more successful than others. However,  the once uncontested home of Vancouver’s best frites and (to those in the know), the best strip-loin for the money had slipped more than a soupçon over the last decade.

Last week the briefly shuttered space (most recently known as Bistro de Paris) re-emerged as Le Parisien, now firmly in the hands of new owner John Blakeley, whose promise to return it to its former glory appears to be well underway.

In fact, it’s already hopping.

Continued

Fairmont Waterfront Hotel rooftop lemon thyme infused white chocolate lollipops. Here just because we like the pic—and we're working on a Waterfront post. Fairmont isn't yet signed up for GTN ... but we're sure they soon will be. Tim Pawsey photo

Earth Day, April 22nd, arrives tomorrow. But how Green are we, really? Year round, that is.

If you’ve sifted through these pages you probably know by now that we’re fully behind most things sustainable—and are committed to the notion that we all need to change our behaviour a whole lot more. Ultimately, though, that pressure to change has to come from consumers, ourselves, who patronize those restaurants (or wineries, like Tinhorn Creek and Yealands) who walk the talk.

Green Table founder and executive director André LaRivière, Kyle Bastien photo

Green Table is a well conceived and increasingly effective project that’s been working hard behind the scenes—launched by André Larivière in 2007—to help restaurants and culinary institutions to become fully engaged and environmentally responsible at every level.

The WHERE Vancouver Green Table Award (in which we’re involved) has recognised some of the most potent Green Table supporters over the past five years, and this excerpt from a current issue includes many of them.

Now there’s Green Table 2.0, spreading out from BC across the country. It brings the entire program on line and effectively streamlines the path to Green Table Network approval.

Rocky Mountain Flatbread's Suzanne Fielden, Tim Pawsey photo

Our column in the current Vancouver Courier highlights a trio of worthy spots, although we’d have to say, when we dropped by Rocky Mountain Flatbread  we were again reminded as to just how truly committed the Fieldens are—and always have been. They were there at the beginning of Green Table; and  remain, with their community outreach programs and school initiatives, the most proactive of any restaurant that we can identify locally.

Look for the GTN seal of approval

If you’re a restaurateur you’ll want to check out Green Table Network asap, and start using its programs  to gain your GTN seal of approval.  And if you’re a concerned consumer, you can also check the site to see who’s for real. And start looking for the GTN as a signal where to best spend your hard earned dining dollar.

And, come to think of it, if you’re serious about Earth Day, why would you dine anywhere else?

Rocky Mountain Flatbread's namesake lunch special, Tim Pawsey photo

Joie's Noble Blend. Aptly named in more ways than one, Tim Pawsey photo

Our recent nod to the BC Liquor Stores Alsace promo  just happened to coincide with the release of Joie Farm’s latest crop of whites and ever popular rosé. And, as usually seems to be the case, right out of the gate, the Joie wines are an indication of what to expect for 2011 (overall, a challenging year) from BC’s better producers.

Heidi Noble and Michael Dinn (who moved from Vancouver to the Okanagan to establish Joie a decade ago) have always drawn their inspiration from Alsace, as they feel the varieties are best suited to their goal of making food friendly wines.

Joie Farm A Noble Blend 2011 Once again, the flagship wine is a stunner that blends predominantly Riesling (38 per cent) and Gewurztraminer (33 per cent) with Pinot Blanc (14 per cent), Pinot Auxerrois (11 per cent) and Schoenberger (4 per cent), sourced from nine sites mainly from the central Okanagan. They add up to a seductively rubenesque drop on both the nose and palate, no doubt the result of longer hanging fruit, apropos the cooler (though for some very challenging) 2011 vintage.

Look for fresh floral notes and sweet spice on the nose, followed by distinctive lime citrus and tropical flavours supported by the plush and spicy Gewurz, all wrapped in juicy acidity and layered complexity with a lingering end. Pad Thai, please. It’s a deal at $23.90. **** 1/2

The 'Joie' family in the vineyard on Naramata Bench, image supplied

Those who’ve been around since the arrival of Canadian Free Trade helped resurrect the B.C. wine industry will recall the time when Pinot Blanc was the Okanagan’s most widely planted grape. In fact, the first ever official BC Wine Institute pairing promotion (considered nothing but daring at the time!) featured Salmon and Pinot Blanc (A Marriage Made in BC) at a handful of local restos who were uncharacteristically forward thinking. Acres of Pinot Blanc were yanked in favour of the new Cali-Oz ingenue in town, Chardonnay, as the industry blithely pursued the latest trend.

BC Liquor Stores portfolio manager (and Master of Wine) Barbara Philip has long been a champion of B.C. Pinot Blanc and in recognition of that Joie dedicated their inaugural (2007) release to her.

Joie Farm Pinot Blanc 2011 is also more Alsace inclined. It’s a clean, racy and vibrant expression of the varietal (thanks in great part to its old vines fruit sourced from Kelowna and Naramata) with a backbone of crisp acidity under apple and tropical notes with a hint of mineral. We’d be putting some pork tenderloin on the barbecue, or just kicking back with a glass when the sun comes back; $22.90. ****

Joie Farm 2011 Chardonnay ‘Un-Oaked’ — Here’s another super food wine, that also adds up to a leader in the (quite Chablis-like) style. It’s interesting to watch how unoaked Chardonnay continues to be embraced. And why not? With its breezy, fresh green apple notes on the nose, followed by apple and pear and quiet mineral on the very fresh, clean but lingering palate this wine is entirely food friendly, and more. Joie says ‘oysters.’ No problem with that, ever. But we’re thinking steamed crab and fennel salad would also be just perfect. Definitely cries out for summer on the deck. $22.90 *** 1/2

Joie Farm Riesling 2011 — No shortage of heritage in this wine, made with grapes predominantly from St. Hubertus  old vines, dating from 1976. Tropical notes on top, followed by a deliciously juicy palate packed with citrus, ginger and mineral notes. We wouldn’t be surprised to see it show up on Vij’s list, for a start. $23.99 ***

All wines are available online at joiefarm.com (prices as shown) and at better BC private wine stores.

(More notes to come…)

Up in the lofty surrounds of a marble clad tower high above downtown Vancouver, HiredBelly.com’s cutting edge IT department is still grappling with the challenge of how to present our ongoing Belly’s Best wine picks in a timely and easily accessible way. We’ll let you know when they finally get it figured out. (If they don’t soon, heads will roll…) But in the meantime we’re going to increase the number of wine reco’s that show up on these pages by including content from some of our current print columns. Some choices and the order in which they appear may vary but the gist is the same …

***

Alsace, all too often overshadowed ...

It doesn’t take long for spring’s arrival to steer our palates to things white and fresh.

All the more reason to take note of the current Alsace promotion at BC Liquor stores, through April.

Too often overshadowed by France’s celebrated, red wine-dominant regions, Alsace often gets lost in the shuffle. Blame it in part, perhaps, on a past that for centuries saw the region lobbed back and forth between varying forms of French and German or Prussian rule.

A more inland region with less maritime influence, Alsace enjoys the rain shadow created by the Vosges Mountains and an overall drier climate. The cooler conditions see more emphasis on white varietals, that amount to over 90 per cent of the production.

Le Crocodile's Foie Gras Terrine, with the right glass too ... We're thinking the Pfaffenheim Steinert Grand Cru (TP photo)

Perhaps more than anywhere else, Alsatian wines are made to be enjoyed with food. You’ll usually find plenty of acidity – and, in the whites at least, you won’t find any oak.

Fourth generation winemaker Hubert Trimbach (whose stellar, mineral-and citrus-toned AOC Riesling, BCLS $29, is also in the program) once said to me “Alsace doesn’t need oak. Our grapes are expressive of the character. We are purists. We believe in the clean aspect of wine grapes – if wine is wooded it’s not clean any more.”

When it comes to culinary prowess, few can compete with this region that’s home to such treats as flammekueche or tarte flambée.

Indeed, Alsatian wines are distinguished by superb fruit expression, bound up with acidity that makes them dynamic food partners, often elegant and shaped by understatement that always allows the fruit to show through.

Here’s a few to put some spring in your kitchen.

- Lucien Albrecht Gewurztraminer 2009

Viscose and layered, this wine is typical of the style that sets Alsace apart, with honey and citrus notes before hints of minerality and a touch of spice that blossoms when matched with piquant Asian plates; BCLS $25.99.

- Hugel Pinot Blanc 2008

Floral and citrus notes on top with firm acidity through an assertive, dry palate that reflects the cooler vintage. Very clean fruit expression with bright citrus and a crisp, clean close; BCLS $19.99.

- Pfaffenheim Steinert Grand Cru Pinot Gris 2008 - Wine of the Week!

Bright gold in the glass, with seductive stonefruit and honeyed notes on top before a plush, oily complex palate wrapped in luscious tropical tones. It’s all underpinned by clean acidity and mineral hints with a lingering, generous close. Think blue cheese, richly sauced white fish – or foie gras anything; BCLS $33.95.

- Paul Zinck Pinot Blanc 2009

Stonefruit and pear on the nose, followed by a firmly fruited but structured and clean, citrus-toned palate with a gently spicy and zesty close. A perfect sipper or a good match with grilled chicken or pork chops. Screwcap; BCLS $17.99.

- Paul Zinck Crémant Brut

A lively stream of bubbles with orchard fruits on the nose as well as some brioche notes before soft apples and stone fruit notes on the off-dry, mouth-filling palate. A flexible, food friendly and fun bubble that won’t break the bank at BCLS $23.99.

Last year's VCBW Collaborative Ale raised $1,294 for Japanese Tsunami Relief

Calling all hopheads: Tickets go on sale at midnight tonight for Vancouver Craft Beer Week (May 18-26)

Can it really be a year already since the last VCBW?

Already, VCBW has quickly become one of the town’s hottest tickets. Last year many events sold out faster than you can say ‘cheers!’

What’s driving this interest? Likely a whole bunch of things, from endless sources of creativity behind labels such as Howe Sound Brewing’s Three Beavers Imperial Red Ale (which of course was nothing to do with ‘those’ games, see below**) to just downright great beers like Crannog Back Hand of God or Driftwood’s Fat Tug IPA.

Stir in a dose of healthy respect for beer and food pairing and you’ll see why the numerous dinners—not to mention the calibre of presenters they offer—are also much in demand.

We also like the organisers’ penchant for staging easily accessible neighbourhood events—which you can walk to or take transit.

This year Mayor Gregor will again kick it all off by tapping the first keg of Collaborative Beer on May 18. It all wraps up with the big show, May 25 and 26, at The Salt Building in The Village on False Creek.

But if you want to grab tix to any of the (awesome) special events in between, better get on it first thing tomorrow. Or, even tonight.

Hop to it…!!!

** Revisiting the Three Beavers (from our North Shore News column at the time)

Howe Sound Brewing's very sporting Three Beavers, image supplied

You’d have to be a real curmudgeon not to get a chuckle out of Howe Sound’s Three Beavers Imperial Red Ale. Its label alone is worth the price of admission.

In quite the best games friendly finesse we’ve seen to date, there are the three beavers, cute and cuddly, all lined up on their suitably arranged ‘podium’ (each on a log of appropriate height), displaying their gold, silver and bronze medals.

And, just in case you should mistakenly suspect this has anything to do with the unmentionable events taking place in Vancouver in 2010, accompanying the celebratory scene is an explanation detailing how the medals around each rodent’s neck represent the brewery’s significant wins at the North American Beer Awards: Bronze in 07 for Diamond Head Oatmeal Stout; Silver for Bailout Bitter (’09); and gold for Garibaldi Honey Pale Ale (’07).

Accompanying this not remotely sporting display of uncharacteristic Canadian bragging rights is a touching potted history of our most potent national symbol.  And as for what’s in the bottle, we’re thinking this surprisingly smooth, gently hopped, well balanced, richly malted (but not too sweet) quaffer is a shoo-in for some metal of its own at the 2010 NAB awards.