Kits hotspot Fable Kitchen (1944 West 4th. Ave., Vancouver, 604-732-1322) is now open for weekday lunch.
We had a sneak preview the other day—and a chance to test drive several of chef Trevor Bird’s plates, some new, some borrowed from the evening list. The array of tasty plates reconfirmed our earlier good impressions of this very locally-driven kitchen, which has been a going concern since Day One—and continues to maintain a high standard.
Here’s a quick wrap-up and a few pics that should have you running down to Fable Kitchen resurrect the age old tradition of a lingering lunch–something a lot of people seem to have forgotten about these days—in a truly cozy setting. Or, likewise, for weekend brunch.
We weren’t being picky about which wine was paired with any given plate. That’s because decent bubbles are a flexible and worthy option for just about any cuisine style or ingredient—certainly the case on this occasion. We were drinking well-made (and even better priced) Organic Prosecco made by Anna Spinato.
This apple and citrus toned sparkler boasts fine streams of tiny bubbles, excellent body and acidity, plus assertive mouth feel and surprising heft for the money—$15.00 at BCLS. 90 pts. Bonus points because it’s bargain priced, even more so for organic drinkers. The whimsical package, with its distinctive cartoonish sleeve has helped propel this wine to the top of its class in BC. On the horizon for next year is a slightly off-dry rosé.
I have to confess that I started out with the infamous Fable ‘canned’ tuna. I’ve had it before and I can’t resist the texture and denseness of the flesh, with the (absolute decadent overkill) ‘mix in your own’ rock salt. The toasts make for perfect sharing … Oh, and the duckfat … !
Showstopper no. 1. Steelhead trout with kale and mustard salad. Slow cooked, just the right side of rare the sensual mouthfeel of the flesh is perfect—another irresistible dish. We’re also big on kale these days, especially like this, when it’s used as a bed for the protein. The mustard dressing was superb, just peppery enough without being so strong as to take away from the subtlety of the fish.
Showstopper no. 2. Fable shepherd’s pie. Perfect west coast monsoon season or winter weather fare, this nicely textured shepherd’s pie comes in its own small le Creuset style tureen, with green salad and perky relish. We pulled the cork on the plush ‘n plummy, ripe tannin, Anna Spinato Cab Sauv 2010 DOC Treviso (88 pts, $19-ish).
Not pictured—mainly because we all ate them too fast—wonderfully textured, pork croquettas with caper and onion gribiche.
Under feigned duress, we shared the classic house dessert of s’mores, shown before …
…and after, deconstructed, immediately prior to inhalation.
I should add that the service is smart, attentive and friendly. And the espresso excellent.
More details at fablekitchen.ca